A theory of learning to surf

[oldmansurfer]

I often do something on a wave and wonder how did I do that? I make waves that if I thought about it I would think I could not make or do a maneuver that if I thought about would think I can't do it but I still make the wave and the maneuver. You may all think that is because I was a good surfer before and perhaps that has a little to do with it but even before when I was a much better surfer I did the same thing. It's almost like I don't think at all sometimes when I surf. I am concentrating on the wave and what I am doing and not thinking about what I should be doing. If the wave is slow and not critical I may think "hmmm, should I do a top turn or a cutback?" But when I am taking a drop or the wave is real critical I don't think about it. I concentrate and focus on what the wave and my board are doing but whatever I do it's like my mind is just an observer and my body makes the decisions. I notice that I slip my front foot to the inside rail on steep waves. I have never done that before when I used to surf and I never thought "Hmmmm maybe I need to move my foot to the inside rail on steep drops." I just did it one day and continue to do it on occasion. It's just like there is an instinct or something telling me to do that. So the point of all this is two things one is concentrating on the wave and the board and not what you are doing is helpful in situations where you don't have time to think anyway. Also because I don't think about how I am performing I am not wasting time thinking "OH my god I am going to die/wipeout/look like an idiot." Instead I am focusing on the situation and that perhaps is why I don't fall down. I assure you I am not a good enough surfer to do that kind of thing on demand it's all just accidental but I pull it off because I am focused on the wave and the board. If you worry about wiping out or how you look then that takes up some of your concentration and you have less focus on the wave and your board. Ultimately thinking you will wipeout is often like a self fulfilling prophecy. Anyway those are my thoughts for now for what it's worth. Maybe this only works if you are an adrenaline junkie like me.

[CARBr6]

Totally with you there Oldman.
I have found with many many things in life that if you think about it then the brain actually gets in the way.

I have found the same with riding motorcycles on the track. If you think about your corner speed, and your braking point and your turn in point, and when to apply the power to accelerate out of the bend then you will get most if not all of these things wrong. However, if you are focused and concentrating on the movement, the flow and the feel of the bike then the bodies natural instincts will take over and you will just successfully execute the manoeuvre.

I have also found the same to be true of surfing. I have had situations when surfing whereby I will get up on a wave beautifully and then have a really nice, luxurious smooth ride with some lovely glide, so the next wave comes and I think so much about what I did on the last one and how to replicate it that I end up trying to surf the previous wave and miss out on surfing the actual wave that I am on. But when the mind is focused on the feel and the board then you can sense what the board is doing, and more importantly what the wave is doing.

Most of the animal kingdom relies on instinct, human seem to think we have evolved beyond that, but in fact our instincts are a lot better and certainly a lot quicker than our thoughts.

[TowelCircus]

Nice post Oldman, surfing is disconnecting your brain and focus on the wave, the sensations, the flow. When you achaieve that i guess you are really surfing.

[oldmansurfer]

I guess the main thing about surfing is if it makes you happy. The way I surf may not suit some people and if I were competing with other surfers or worried about what they think of me I wouldn't be happy (I would totally fail in competitive surfing). On the other side of the coin I may sometimes look like I know how to surf to others but it is all coincidence and luck and a decent sense of balance. But surfing makes me feel good even on the worst of days and that is what matters to me.

[SoCalSurfing]

Ultimately thinking you will wipeout is often like a self fulfilling prophecy.

Very true and I am much more aware of how I am making myself abort at the first sign of the thought.

I am also trying to improve my focus to block every thing else except the wave and board....