Take Off on Fast Waves

[Big H]

Hahaha.....I haven’t eaten yet and I’m hung up on spam and ketchup......might not be a cake but I could go for that on some bread.

[waikikikichan]

I’m hung up on spam and ketchup......might not be a cake but I could go for that on some bread.

After taking off on fast waves, local surfers grab the "Hawaiian Powerbar" for snacking on.

[dtc]

spam sushi?

[oldmansurfer]

Sort of sushi but in sushi the rice usually has rice wine vinegar added but for spam musubi not usually. I just saw somewhere a breakfast musubi made with bacon flavored spam with scrambled eggs and between two patties of hash browns wrapped with nori (seasweed)

[waikikikichan]

Technically "Spam Onigiri", but in Hawaii we call them "Spam Musubi". They sell them even at the 7-11 convenience stores for $1.50+ .

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[jet528]

It looked like this last week low tide.. (high tide isn't any better though )
I guess it's safer to have spam musubi at the beach than to be in the water

[oldmansurfer]

When I was a kid musubi was just a triangular shaped clump of rice either plain or with an ume (pickled plum)....(I liked the ume version) in the center. It might have been made with mirin (a sweet rice wine) mixed in the rice but no nori except maybe flakes sprinkled over it along with dried bonito flakes. It is still a common ingredient in bentos or box lunch. People started getting creative with musubi making all different varieties but the spam version is the most popular even more popular than the original musubi with ume that I knew and loved as a kid. Wow what a crowd! Definitely safer to eat musubi

[dtc]

It looked like this last week low tide.. (high tide isn't any better though )
I guess it's safer to have spam musubi at the beach than to be in the water

Its feasible, if not much fun, to catch those waves. If you are standing and having the face collapse under you, then probably you arent in the right position ie you are caught up in/on the lip. So you need to be slightly closer to the beach when the wave catches you ie the wave is slightly more curved (a 'later drop' in the parlance). This is likely either due to you sitting too far back before you start or not being at the right speed when the wave reaches you (paddling) and being sucked up the face a little bit.

It seems easier to sit further back and paddle onto the wave, but if you are too high up the face when it catches you then that is actually bad.

Admittedly in thigh deep water with small close out waves, the best you can do is probably go straight and mostly on white water. But its something!

edit: waikikichan has a good post http://alohaki.jugem.jp/?eid=664

[jet528]

If you are standing and having the face collapse under you, then probably you arent in the right position ie you are caught up in/on the lip.

So you need to be slightly closer to the beach when the wave catches you ie the wave is slightly more curved (a 'later drop' in the parlance). This is likely either due to you sitting too far back before you start or not being at the right speed when the wave reaches you (paddling) and being sucked up the face a little bit.

It seems easier to sit further back and paddle onto the wave, but if you are too high up the face when it catches you then that is actually bad.

Let me try to visualise what you said..Forgive this beginner here!
I am often on the lip and fall with the lip while it hits the water. Does this mean I am popping up too early? So to avoid this, I should paddle a bit more and pop up when the wave is slightly breaking/about to break and glide down the face, so I won't be high up there? Also, "sit further back" means my position on the board? Thankyou!!

[waikikikichan]

I am often on the lip and fall with the lip while it hits the water. Does this mean I am popping up too early? So to avoid this, I should paddle a bit more and pop up when the wave is slightly breaking/about to break and glide down the face, so I won't be high up there?

You described exactly what I call "Fred Flintstone surfing".

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Catch the way first, THEN stand up. But if the wave is already broken / closing out, it's maybe just not catchable/rideable.
Yabba Dabba Do !!

[dtc]

Let me try to visualise what you said..Forgive this beginner here!
I am often on the lip and fall with the lip while it hits the water. Does this mean I am popping up too early? So to avoid this, I should paddle a bit more and pop up when the wave is slightly breaking/about to break and glide down the face, so I won't be high up there? Also, "sit further back" means my position on the board? Thankyou!!

When you are catching a wave, you dont want to catch it from the lip, because it will either throw you forward or you end up like the Fred flintstone pic ie sitting on top of the lip which then crashes down. You want to catch the wave under the lip (ie on the face). If you are consistently catching the lip, its because by the time you have caught the wave, it has mostly passed you by and you are ending up either missing the wave or catching the lip.

So you need to catch the wave before the lip catches you (this does not mean pop up earlier, it means have the wave catch your board earlier ie before you float up to the lip). There are two reasons why you might not be catching it earlier

- you are physically too far back (by which I mean 'sitting to far away from the beach' ie too far back from where the wave is breaking) - so you just need to move slightly closer in and catch the wave ; and/or

- (more likely) you arent paddling fast enough, so that the wave almost passes you by but you just manage to catch it (do you sometimes nose dive?). You cant just let the wave catch you and fling you, you need to paddle into the wave. (note: its also possible you stop paddling too early eg as soon as you feel the wave tilt the board slightly. It is also possible that you are laying too far back on your board, so your nose is out of the water, which makes you paddle slower)

Have you watched the 'surf simply' videos? Recommend 'catching unbroken waves' (linked below) and 'paddling to spot X'. These should help much better than me