cleanup sets SUCK

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cleanup sets SUCK

Postby txsurfer » Tue Jan 10, 2006 11:30 pm

well my first real surf trip this summer was amazing. we stayed in a little village called Nosara in costa rica. its really laid back, not crowded at all and pretty good surf. WHAT MORE COULD YA ASK FOR!!??(especially being a texas surfer). anyways, first day in costa, we are getting ready to paddle out on Playa Guiones. It "looks" to be maybe head to a foot over head, clean as hell, beach break. we start paddling out, that took FOREVER, hardest paddle out i have ever had, and the waves were def not head high, more like 2 - 3ft over head and i was getting very nervous. these waves hit soooo hard compared to texas waves haha. so my buddy and i (he has been to cali and hawaii, so i trust him a little more than myself) are finally on the outside, im taking a breather from the paddle out and assesing if i should somehow paddle back in, and im noticing its getting bigger. we duckdive right through the peaking face (which is my new obsession by the way hahah) of a couple of double overheads, when the last wave of the set approached, easy 13+ft, maybe close to 15. i paddled like hell, and needless to say, it closed about 7 feet in front of me. my friend jumped off his board and swam under, and i tried to duck dive, big mistake. it worked for like 1 sec, then a huge roar, and my board was ripped outa my hands, and i went flipping for a good 20 seconds. i thought i was going to die. i surfaced, swam under another, got on my board and figured out a fast way in without another one of these monsters closing on my head, or me going over the falls. scariest day of my life!
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Postby IdRatherBeSurfing » Sat Jan 14, 2006 1:15 pm

Id have stuck it out man! Sounds like a good day 4 it

were there many out htere already surfing?
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