When Waikiki ISN"T for beginners

[waikikikichan]

[oldmansurfer]

I was very fortunate to surf better big Waikiki back in the 70's. There was a 6 to 7 foot left breaking out from the board rentals/lockers. There was another surfer out and I was on a rental log, big red log that was supposed to be a rental but the rental was closed due to the surf being too big. The beachboy said I could just go ahead and take one so I did. The first three waves I tried to turn the board and fell off sideways and had to swim in for the board. On my third attempt the beachboy came by and said "You haven't ever ridden a longboard before." Then proceeded to tell me how to turn the board use my ankles first then after the board starts to turn then lean into it. Once I did that I had numerous long fun waves and even figured out how to cutback on that log.