by Dyyy.lan_ » Fri Sep 03, 2021 4:19 am
by oldmansurfer » Sat Sep 04, 2021 5:42 am
by Dyyy.lan_ » Sat Sep 04, 2021 11:53 pm
oldmansurfer wrote:While you were watching those videos of Koa Rothman did you notice what he did? What does JJF do? I have noticed some surfers do a kind of heel/toe/heel/toe zigzagging backwards kind of movement. What I have done is just to learn to popup further back. I used to surf from a place in front of the fins but learned to popup further back since I felt there wasn't often time to move my feet unless the wave was kind of slow. I think with time surfing the same board you learn it's dimensions and just know where you are on the board without looking.
by oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 05, 2021 7:18 pm
by Dyyy.lan_ » Sun Sep 05, 2021 8:40 pm
oldmansurfer wrote:I think the ankle on the side thing is just a way to have your foot back on the board but your weight forward so that you can switch from weight forward to weight backward without moving your feet
by oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 05, 2021 10:31 pm
by Dyyy.lan_ » Fri Sep 10, 2021 8:27 am
oldmansurfer wrote:Yeah that is Malia who is from Kauai where I live (at Kelly Slaters surf ranch). I don't get tubed often so don't have to worry about that kind of foot placement changes. Usually I am set up to turn from the beginning. However I do move around a bit mostly by stepping. The boards I surf are between 7 to 8 foot long so I move around quite a bit but on the fast breaking waves I usually surf I don't move much unless I hit some slack portion of the wave. In that instance I have time to step forward and when I am coming to a portion of the wave that speeds up I step back before I need to so that I am ready because once you get into a critical situation at least to me it seems you don't have time to move your feet and if I attempt to it will end in failure quite often so I try to avoid getting into those situations by keeping track of what the wave is doing and acting before it's too late. I think the majority of the time I move my feet I just step forward or back and slide the other foot up or back as needed. Riding a shorter board you can keep your front foot in place and just move the back foot. I do a stretch almost every morning where I take a wide stance and squat down then shift my weight over one foot and then the next keeping my head at the same height and dropping my knee toward the board on the leg not bearing the majority of the weight. This makes a stance somewhat like that stance Malia has on that wave (except I'm not as flexible or pretty as she is).
by IB_Surfer » Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:51 am
by Dyyy.lan_ » Sat Sep 11, 2021 6:39 pm
IB_Surfer wrote:I got the JS Black Box II, dig it
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