Happy 4th of JUly

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Happy 4th of JUly

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Jul 04, 2021 5:48 pm

Hope you all get some surf. I won't but I wrote this July the 4 2013. I had some fun surfing shore break today, some waves were head high and I did something i never did before.....made a bottom turn and put my hand down and touched the sand with my hand in the middle of the turn hahahahaha it was real shallow there :)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Happy 4th of JUly

Postby BoMan » Sun Jul 04, 2021 6:36 pm

Haha! My adventures are usually with rocks. I rode an inside runner until my fin hit one and pitched me off.
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
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Re: Happy 4th of JUly

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Jul 04, 2021 8:58 pm

Fortunately where I was turning was a little deeper so no problem however I used to do floaters on the shore break but my fins were getting sanded down so I quit
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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