awesome bit of history of surfing

[oldmansurfer]

Gerry Lopez and Rick Ianconetti sharing a tube at Honolua bay. https://thelostandfoundcollection.com/blogs/stories/big-honolua-bay-1976 Lopez grabbed his hand and whipped him forward to make sure he got by him then followed him out of the tube

[jaffa1949]

Nice, so often the really good guys (both in skill and aloha) have the presence of mind to pull something like this off and save a possible bad situation.

The ego power people further down the foodchain would be a frothing fighting frenzy and someting serious could have happened.