Surfing Waves

I was looking at other peoples videos and stuff and I realized how lucky I am to have a perfect point break 5 minutes from my house. Whats the best wave near you?

when im in school at UCSC it would be Steamer Lane, when im at home in San Diego, probably Blacks, but i usually surf Imperial Beach just cuz its closest and i like the way it breaks

An hout & a half drive right, prettu much world class:

https://surfing-waves.com/atlas/aust ... maunu.html


And an hour south :
https://surfing-waves.com/atlas/aust ... t_bay.html

ooooops!

https://surfing-waves.com/atlas/aust ... maunu.html

https://surfing-waves.com/atlas/aust ... t_bay.html

the catlins is 3 hours south, gets big, no crowds, sharky, probably Papatowai would be the best known wave there, it's nz's big wave spot.

Nearest would be on the south west coast, but it's unexplored, and the only way in is by helicopter, takes about 20 minutes, but no idea about what breaks are there although there is supposed to be a couple of world class points.

This is the area - no spots shown on the map, and probably not a good idea to put them on there.

https://surfing-waves.com/atlas/aust ... hland.html

Blacks, sunset cliffs(the more local spots), big rock,

basically at my front door i have plenty of choices

Ours.

Actually, I wouldnt say thats the best wave near me, but its a good answer

The local pool. Might as well be.

this is the best known point by my house.......but I have a few spots that I think are better

Well, there are 3 beach near where I live, the nearest one is Bondi, get a lot of dumpers

but there's Tamarama near, just takes a few more minutes compare to Bondi, then further down, about 10min from Tamarama is Bronte. Most surfers at Tamarama and Bronte are locals, and the waves are much better than Bondi most of the time.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=TJJbGgGDFqE

and Tamarama would get these huge ones that Bondi doesnt get ;D
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=fxi_xT0dXUI

Wes4syth wrote:I was looking at other peoples videos and stuff and I realized how lucky I am to have a perfect point break 5 minutes from my house. Whats the best wave near you?

So you gonna tell us where this great break is then or what its called?

KS

if you like reef breaks, we got hazards and mouse rock on big days. but for the less adventurous, morro strand state beach is probably the best

Pipe

best known, s-turns. but anywhere can fire, depending on swell size, direction, winds, and the recent bar movements due to storms. one specific spot i know of that is quite fun. somewhere between kill devil hills and rodanthe

I used to live right next to s-turns beach in maui. My beach is locals only called little dume

Wes4syth wrote:I used to live right next to s-turns beach in maui. My beach is locals only called little dume

Just so I know, if you move to an area (e.g. Job change) after you paddle out to the line out, how do you convince people you're a 'local'

you dont convinve people your a local. if you move to a new area, you just have to stick around for years surfing the break. after some years and after the other locals have seen you and recognize you, you become a "local". you pretty much have to live there and be established there.

tree4 wrote:

Wes4syth wrote:I used to live right next to s-turns beach in maui. My beach is locals only called little dume

Just so I know, if you move to an area (e.g. Job change) after you paddle out to the line out, how do you convince people you're a 'local'

Little Dume is local only due to location.....if you live in the trailer park over it you can hike down easy....if you don't live there it is a long walk and folks in LA are lazy. Little Dume is a fun wave, I know someone in the trailer park so I used to go when it was on....Big Dume is the same set up.....only bigger and the bluff above has 10-20 million $$ fat rich folks mansions, instead of 1/2 million dollar trailers at little Dume!!

They are both local only spots cuz the rich folk deny access to us paupers..Big Dime has 2 parking spots, other than that add like 3/4 mile hike, to a long hike down the cliff...Little Dume you need to get in the gated trailer park....both are good waves, and I have never gotten a local vibe at either..just no one goes there but those who can afford to live there cuz access is shut off. Thus local only!

yeah, there are 3 main paths to little dume, but you need to have a key to use them. there is gnarly heavy duty security. In the summer there is even a security guard and you have to sign in and have a key to get in

Milo wrote:Pipe :wink:

pipe aint that great. im not just saying that, pipe is on the way to some of the breaks i usually surf on the north shore, i drive right past pipe. the crowd is definetly a factor, and its a very fast and steep wave, and if its not breaking right the rides are short and messy.