by naniekso » Tue Jan 26, 2016 12:36 am
01/25/2016
Hey everyone!
It's been a very long time since I've returned. I have some good news and bad news!
The good news is I will update today.
The bad news is I forgot to update the last few years :C
So last week on Saturday, I went out to a break which was famous back in the days. Can you guess? It's got the word killer, and is in the same family as Killer whales...>KILLER DANA!~~~
I paddle out from the breakwall and sprint to the outer rocks. OH my good, soo many rocks and shallow little rocks pointing out from the groud, nearly had a heart attack as boils would popup here and there.
Then this massive 8foot set came and I sprinted to the shoulder to avoid getting smashed in a NEW-to-me break which I've never surfed.
This older gent paddles out and we both got close to each other and gave each other that laugh of how we just dodged a bullet. Moral support~
No photos or anything, but essentially we worked out our fears. My first wave was terrifying! Backside, full of rocks on the inside. Unknown bottom-I just knew there were rocks hahaha.
Second wave? It felt like home, I was slashing left and right doing roundhouses and making huge sprays.
~I surfed the "new" old Killer Dana!~