Latest Surfs...

[drowningbitbybit]

yeah, I kinda figured the wedge part...but does anybody know what causes them?

Water can hold two sets of swells - think of throwing two coins into a pond, and watch where the ripples collide and interfere with each other. So in theory you could have two swells coming in from different angles. But thats unlikely 'cos they'd interfere way before they hit the shoreline. What normally happens is you've got one swell line hitting two different things - f'r instance, part of the wave hits a jetty and reflects back off it, while the other half carries on towards the beach til its smacked by the reflected wave.

[libby]

Getting two different swell directions is really common in Mt Maunganui as it has a big swell window and is relatively open. It can be quite interesting going out in what you think are really really small little waves, you've been out for half an hour or an hour and then out of nowhere a much bigger creeper set comes through that you havent seen before cos its real old long long long period groundswell from a different swell direction to the little fun waves. Scares the bejesus out of me.

[PapaW]

Look up "Wave refraction"

[baja fresk]

this really isnt the "latest surf" for me but was one of my most memorable moments. i was surfing the pier on a saturday, and this was way back in like octoberish. waves werent that big, like waist high at best. but the thing i most remember about it was the water was pefect, crystal clear. no joke, there were no clouds at all the sun was out and shining through the water, just perfect glass. it was like 10 feet depth and i could practically count every grandual of sand down there. anyway, i was paddling for a wave, caught it, and was just riding down the face. i was still learning, so i couldnt really do any tricks, and the most turning i could do was lean in the direction i wanted to go, so all i was doing was riding down the face, setting my line. i was really flying. so i look down to my feet and under my board, i see a giant school of fish swimming with me in the face and front of the wave! it was the most beautiful thing ive ever seen (well not really) but it was really cool. it was like i was one with nature or something, the fish were jumping in and out of the wave, some over my board, but the whole school was just riding with my on the wave and was really great. when the wave pooped out i jumped off into the school and they swam away, but i came up with a big smile on my face.

truly a special moment.

[bluesnowcone]

i just had well yesterday, any way, i had a lush surf at bournmouth last evening/night, the waves cleaned up a little and increased by about a foot for an hour or so, i caught some lush back handers, and learn'd to do a cut back on my longboard (not a quick one but its on its way to being a good cut back.) im well chufed!!

[GowerCharger]

@bajafrsk we get a similar thing with the waves here, but with turds instead of fish

[baja fresk]

well hopefully they're sinkers and not floaters

[surfinforlife]

Ahhh, just got to work after a BEAUTIFUL morning surf (even though it was only 5 degrees, thats 41 for you non metric people!!!), it was only 2ft, but it was so glassy and i was just about the only one out!!! Heres a piccie for ya!

[baja fresk]

damn look at those trace lines.

hell, i dont care if its 2 feet, give me a long board and ill just stand there on that line for 20 minutes till i fall off

[surfinforlife]

yup would have defintely been a little better if i had a longer board, but i still had fun!!!

[FormosanSurfer]

yesterday was really good at the secret spot. The waves were shoulder to head high and fun to ride. I got an awesome ride with two cut backs on my new board.

[Dec]

good old ankle slappers today. Sat on the beach and watched!!

[FormosanSurfer]

Yesterday was a nice shoulder high day. Got some sweet rides on my new board.

Ironically, the place where they were holding asurf competition yesterday only had 2ft waves

[thaya]

I was in Newquay last week. The first few days were ok and then it went a bit flat, but it was still just about surfable. I'd paddled quite a way out and was soaking up the gorgeous sunshine when I saw a shark fin. As it got closer I got a good look at it and it was a good 12-14ft long It was the most amazing experience. I was terrified until the guy I was with assured me it wasn't dangerous. Nevertheless I made sure my entire body was on the surf board and sat there for about 20mins without moving until it had gone! Has anyone else seen a shark in cornwall? I think I will be a little more cautious about paddling out so far in future!

[Broosta]

Basking shark? Apparently common in Cornwall, big fleshin' that swim slowly near the surface with their mouths open to catch plankton.

[Dec]

ha ha ha...That sounds like the perfect Jaws Shark. At least without the teeth!!!


I can just imagine a group of you all crapping yourselves untill you see its gums!!

[PapaW]

I'm going up the wall at the moment, Monday seems such a long way away....

[Dec]

aah well...I have a day off friday and it looks great, well overhead for the weekend!!!

Surf's Up!!!!

[FishKid Wales]

PPW Wheres the swell going to hit on monday?

[PapaW]

Should be on the coasts by sunday. Deffo by sunday evening. Looking best for sunday eveing in the SW at the moement.

It'll be up to north wales by monday for sure. Watch the winds tho, looks like the front is catching up with the swell.