Surftrip (October & November) - Sri Lanka or Indonesia?

[Bjornv1988]

Hi Guys,

I'd like to go surfing for 2 months (October & November), but I am not sure where to go yet. I have about 4 weeks of experience in surfing. I know how to take-off and I can ride a left and right wave but I have never surfed on waves bigger than 1,8m (6 ft). The problem at the moment is that I am not very consistent in surfing. The take-off isn't always as fast as it should be, and sometimes I am too late to go to the right or left.

I never tried shortboarding and one of my goals is to learn this during these 2 months. I know I need to improve everything to become a good shortboarder, but I have 2 months and I would like to get better step by step. Confidence is very important for me, so in October I am looking for spots with mellow waves that give me the confidence I need. In November I'd like to challenge myself to ride a bit bigger waves.

What country/place would you recommend? And if you say Indonesia, what spots would you recommend for someone of my level? Taking money, crowd, wave height, people, food, price, ... into account.

Oh btw, I also like to play beachvolleyball, so a spot with waves and beachvolley net would be awesome

I know I could stay 1 month in Sri Lanka and 1 month in Indonesia, but I guess the flights would make me lose a lot of money and time?

My budget is about 1500€ (1650$), flight not included.

If someone could help me with this choice, that'd be great thanks!

Björn

[Lebowski]

To be honest, you can't really 'learn to shortboard' in 2 months, especially with only 1 month of previous experience. Just keep working your way down in size slightly, but don't fool yourself - 1 month experience is practically nothing and I'd remain on a fairly large board for maximum enjoyment.

[Bjornv1988]

Hi Lebowski,

Thank you for your advice, but I'll be happy if I can surf a left/right wave with a fish or short board. I know that it's not possible to do bottom turns and cutbacks in 2 months but every progression is fine by me.

Anyone here who could recommend which country/spot I'd better go to ?

Kind Regards,

Björn

[jaffa1949]

A pretty raw question!
Do you plan to take your own board, buy one there or hire one ?
October is pretty much the end of the main Indonesian surf season there is surf ( shoulder season more aptly) and it can be quite good. It will be the beginning of the rain season but not chronic at this stage , but that too depends on the weather gods. Plenty of surf schools and accommodation, that is google searchable. There are linked deals available.
Sri Lanka is changing sides as the season changes but still some good surf and it is kinder to the learner surfer less chance of buying boards or renting boards though.
Some questions on board choice would be helped by where you surf just the country and locale will do , your age, weight and height and what you are surfing now.
Successfully going left or right needs a bottom turn of sorts or an angled take off.
For either Sri Lanka or especially Indo, you will need paddling power, waves coming out of the deep oceanic waters have greater speed and you need to be able to match that.
Indonesian waters are plagued by lots of would be shortboarders of little water experience floundering and being smashed even in mellow surf zones.
They are insistent on going short when a longer board would enable them to catch waves and improve their skill.
Many spots that are advertised as beginner friendly are more critical than they would have you believe.

Decide too about the volleyball some of the places are a bit more remote than that.
Football ( soccer ) is more available..

When the guys here understand your level a bit more there will probably be clear recommendations as to spot accommodation and costs.
BTW you do need to be genuinely self sufficient in safety in the water, lifeguard services are almost non existent.

[Bjornv1988]

Hi Jaffa,

Thank you for your answer.

I have talked to some friends and I am in doubt about 2 options:

1) Go to Indonesia at the end of September (27/09/16) for 1 month, go to Canggu beach as it's less crowded and maybe beginner/intermediate friendly? This option can cost me quite some money and time (flights) because I have to go to Jakarta, then take a plane to Denpasar. At the end of October I would take a plane from Denpasar to Jakarta, then take a flight to Colombo. This would be the first time I would fly for more than 5 hours though
In Sri Lanka, I would like to visit Hikkaduwa, Midigama & Meligawa.

2) Go to Sri Lanka in October (09/10/16) and see if there are already mellow/small waves in Hikkaduwa or Midigama. Even if there are small waves of 80cm (3ft), that would be great to start with as I haven't surfed since June. I would stay in Sri Lanka for 2 months then.

I have surfed in Europe (France, Spain) most of the time and I am used to the Atlantic Ocean. Biarritz, Hossegor, Capbreton, ... are spots with quite powerful waves. As I said, I can take-off and surf a left/right wave but I have to learn how to take an angled take-off EVERYTIME. I catch a lot of waves with a longboard, but the take-off is not always angled. I know I have to look in the direction I am going and I've watched several surf tutorials on youtube (Surf Simply Tutorials) and I am also a snowboard instructor, so I understand everything quite fast but I know that surfing is something you have to DO to become better.

I am 1m86 (6 1') and my weight is 74kg (163lbs). I have surfed with a 7 2' before, but I used to longboard most of the time. My plan is to start with a longboard for about 2 weeks (depending on the waves off course) and build some confidence. After that I would try to surf with a 7'10 or 7'6 and work my way down untill I can surf with a 6'8 or 6'6. I am aware of the fact that the choice of board depends on the waves (and your muscle power ).

The safety issue is something I am quite worried about, so I am going to prepare myself a little bit for this. I will try to swim twice a week, do some underwater swimming to hold my breath a bit longer and maybe fitness a bit to strengthen my muscles. I am quite social, so I will talk to locals or other people about the waves and spots before going into the water.

Does anyone of you have some tips to prepare for a long surf trip? Breath exercises, train the right muscles, ...

Any help is welcome, thanks!

Björn

[Big H]

1) Go to Indonesia at the end of September (27/09/16) for 1 month, go to Canggu beach as it's less crowded and maybe beginner/intermediate friendly?

You won't find a more crowded break than there....especially on days you'd want to venture out....waves can be quite good across the breaks there and on those days it is neither uncrowded nor beginner friendly. Days that are manageable for a beginner are untenable for pretty much anyone as the crowds are thick.



Guys with 4 weeks experience and no paddle fitness, especially those who insist on shortboards (and as Jaffa noted, waves here are full of them), they do not get waves....there is too much competition....and if you do decide to go ahead and take a wave regardless of the fact you are dropping in, often times there is a collision or confrontation or both....

For Bali I'd say cut your teeth at Kuta, get a feel for the speed of the waves then spend some time at Batu Bolong....that is for small to medium days....like Jaffa said, it can be quite good here that time of year....I surfed Kuta yesterday and it was overhead and barreling.....but the inside reforms were surfable and both inside and outside were busy all the way down the beach....the big early season swells have shifted sands around for the better and there are more and better quality waves there this year than last........Kuta has something for everyone.

[Big H]

BTW, most people don't promote where they surf....brings the crowds.....I'm not letting any secrets out about Kuta or Batu Bolong.....both are like surfing in a shopping mall food court on Saturday night.

[jaffa1949]

Swim swim and swim. Canggu is not an uncrowded spot, it is currently quite in fashion, froth fest. because it has nightlife and beach stuff and a club feel. It is semi user friendly but only on beginner days when the better surfers go elsewhere, but the beach is then crowded with beginners and it is the Biaritz nightmare multiplied.
Consider all these thoughts Indo, surf conditions can jump dramatically from benign learner surf to an epic big wave feast in a very short time, becoming quickly dangerous as the swell hits. Your fitness needs to be a a degree that can ensure your survival!
You need to understand the dynamics of beaches rips and sudden changes of oceanic mood!

There is plenty of scope for fun and learning but the the more paddle fit and the more your board helps your paddling the more your surfing will improve.

Waves move much faster in circumstances where there is no continental shelf, you are a basic beginner or just above it. You are heading to where black diamond runs are available. Unless you are hitting the outside bigger breaks in France and Spain then you will be surprised! Let's hope you get the best waves of your life
You will!

BTW Since you have never flown more than 6 hours let me tell you Indonesia and particularly Bali is nothing like you experience in Europe. Prepare for culture shock, more of the same but different in Sri Lanka.
Get out an be a tourist too!

[Bjornv1988]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tips! All I am asking is for some spots that are beginner friendly. As I said, I am able to catch a green wave and do a decent, sometimes angled, take-off. I was looking on the net and I thought Canggu might be good for my level, but as both of you said, if the spots are crowded I won't catch many waves due to my slower paddle speed.

Maybe I can start my trip in Kuta and longboard there for a week or 2 weeks so I get used to paddling a lot again After that I would like to find a spot that is less crowded and has something to offer for my level. Any ideas/tips for that?

And what about board choice? Would it be better to rent boards? The good thing is that I can take a longer board on small days and a smaller one on bigger days.. ?

I am also going to swim 3 times a week in August & September, so I hope that helps me out a bit.

[dtc]

You seem particularly keen on Indo - why not Sri Lanka? Its much more beginner friendly, probably cheaper, dare I say more interesting (....people will disagree with me here, but beginner friendly surfing areas in Indo are tending toward being quite geared to tourists). Indo is probably easier to get around (almost definitely) and has more of a surfing infrastructure

[jaffa1949]

Kuta is even more crowded than Canggu and a major hassle, lots of rental and lots of hassle to buy stuff and is even more likely to go from benign to huge closeouts !

If you are really set on Indo go to Gerupuk in Lombok , yep it is another flight . But it is away from the madness?

Sri Lanka is a better option in many ways but you are not getting the message, you are better staying on longer boards.

[Tudeo]

I've been living and surfing in Bali for the last 8 years and can tell you this.

The positive:
- Bali has great waves and many surfspots.
- As a (surf) tourist you can find anything you need easy.
- There are many surf schools to help you out.
- Plenty of other things to do when not surfing.

The negative:
- Too crowded. For the inexperienced surfer this means you only get quality waves if you pay a local surf instructor. He will push you into waves even if somebody is riding that wave. He, and his colleagues will help you if there is a conflict about that, part of the service..
- When you surf on your own in quality waves, beginners are without a change against the more experienced surfers, who will outposition and outpaddle you. Big H. already explained to you what happens when you drop in to someone.
- On the rare occasion you will catch a good wave, don't be surprised if another beginner paddles in front of you, trying in panic to escape the white water; or another beginner, too busy catching the wave and not looking to the inside (or out of control unable to pull out), drops in on you; or an experienced surfer drops in on you, they tend to reason the chances the deeper positioned beginner will make the wave too small to bother, often they are right. If not, the good guys leave the wave..
- The only less crowded quality waves are too difficult/dangerous for beginners.
- Pollution. Oct/nov is in the rain season when the rivers massively stream serious pollution in the surf areas. Many people suffer ear infections or worse.
- Wind: early onshores in oct/nov. Eastcoast is offshore then in early morning, but more dangerous conditions (strong currents, sharp reefs, heavy waves) and crowded.

For a beginner surfer it is still possible to have a lot of fun surfing in Bali when you stay away from the crowded quality waves. Just find an uncrowded beachbreak in the very long beach stretching from Kuta until Seminyak.

I don't know about Sri Lanka. My main message to you is: try to avoid crowds, they spoil the fun. If Sri Lanka offers uncrowded waves, I would seriously consider that option if I was you

[Bjornv1988]

Well there are 2 reasons I am not going to Sri Lanka immediatel:

1) October is a shoulder month, sometimes Arugam Bay still works, sometimes you have to go to Midigama or Hikkaduwa.
2) I'd like to go on a trip for 2,5 months and some friends told me that I would be bored in Sri Lanka after 1 month.

Lombok (Gerupuk) might be a good idea as I've read some good things about that place but what do you guys think? Is it a good spot for beginners with 4-5 weeks of experience? And about the wind: will it be more offshore or onshore in October?

If I go to Sri Lanka immediately, I can still check the weather forecast to see where I have to go. I just hope that Arugam Bay won't be too crowded in October..

Maybe it's a good idea to take some private lessons or a surf camp so I can improve faster? What are your thoughts on that?

Grtz!

[jaffa1949]

Unless you are really into surfing everyday Gerupuk is a boring option. You are in a largely Muslim area where drinking and nightclubbing outside your resort in at the very least frowned upon!
Sri Lanka frowns upon disrespect to Buddha . The winds are shifty. And unreliable for being offshore, but you can score!

You can go to Kuta Lombok for some nightlife sort of, if you are serious about surfing plan around surfing not other stuff !

Buy a book called Indo surf and Lingo by Petrer Neely you might have some understand of where and how you are going!
You are planning to go out of season it will be all up to your luck and how you interact with the locals.

[Lebowski]

Gerupuk is also packed with surfers.

[waikikikichan]

I am also a snowboard instructor, so I understand everything quite fast

I hope you can help me. I now live in Japan and snowboarded one time in Nagano. I could go toe side all the way down the green hill. Heel side I fall on my butt. I was watching the guys on the half pipe and it looks awesome to do. Is it possible to ride a half pipe going only toe side ? I really want to ride one this coming winter. Any thing you can recommend I do to prepare. Should be easy anyway because my feet are already attached to the board unlike a surfboard.

[Big H]

Try to swim every day leading up to the trip if you plan to surf every day. I took a three week vacation away from the ocean and now after being back two weeks am just starting to round into fitness.

[Bjornv1988]

I am also a snowboard instructor, so I understand everything quite fast

I hope you can help me. I now live in Japan and snowboarded one time in Nagano. I could go toe side all the way down the green hill. Heel side I fall on my butt. I was watching the guys on the half pipe and it looks awesome to do. Is it possible to ride a half pipe going only toe side ? I really want to ride one this coming winter. Any thing you can recommend I do to prepare. Should be easy anyway because my feet are already attached to the board unlike a surfboard.

And this was your first week of snowboarding? I don't really get what you mean to be honest. Are you talking about turns or going straight?

Grtz!

[Big H]

I am also a snowboard instructor, so I understand everything quite fast

I hope you can help me. I now live in Japan and snowboarded one time in Nagano. I could go toe side all the way down the green hill. Heel side I fall on my butt. I was watching the guys on the half pipe and it looks awesome to do. Is it possible to ride a half pipe going only toe side ? I really want to ride one this coming winter. Any thing you can recommend I do to prepare. Should be easy anyway because my feet are already attached to the board unlike a surfboard.

Maybe your board was too big....should try going down in size.

To prepare you should stand on park benches then practice falling down into the grass....this will prepare your body....if there is a paved path next to the bench even better but is more of an advanced technique....google youtube videos, they can help a lot.......also put water on tile floors then run and practice sliding through the water and falling randomly there too. Do this frontside and backside and then alternate from goofy to normal footed when you slide. This will equilaterally develop your balance, awareness and pain absorptive qualities on both sides of your body, making for more complete training and prepare you for similar situations when the slopes have that morning glaze on the top of the snow and your board behaves unpredictably. You should be a quick learner because you are a surf instructor and so much translates between the two activities.

[waikikikichan]

And this was your first week of snowboarding? I don't really get what you mean to be honest. Are you talking about turns or going straight?

I only went for 2 days. First 1/2 day was on the Bunny hill, afternoon time I went up a lift to the next level. Next day, I stayed on the green hill, but from the lift I could see guys riding the half-pipe. I guess you could call it turns. I point the nose down the hill, then go toe side to slow down and the board would slide left or right, then I'd speed up by pointing down hill again.

I figure with my surfing skills, riding a half-pipe will be just like riding a breaking wave. Just go front side the whole way.