Surfing Waves

I've been surfing since July on my 9'6" here in NorCal and it's been great so far. I've been able to progress and catch small, and medium to shoulder-high waves.

Now that winter is here the waves are getting bigger. that log is becoming more of a hinderance than anything. I'm pretty confident that I can catch overhead+ waves (I have done a few successfully with the longboard), but am looking to get a board that will allow me to duck dive and be able to get past the white water much easily.

I've been looking at funboards, but not sure what size would allow me to ride larger waves. I'm 5'7", weigh about 160lb. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks

You have a few competing priorities- a board for your skill level eg funboard is probably not a duck diveable board. And a board you can duck dive probably isn't a the board you want to learn to use in bigger faster waves

Certainly fun boards can be a bit easier than logs in bigger surf but you still need to turtle roll or go up the rip or whatever

But if you think you can handle it, then get a board you can just duck dive. Have a read here
http://surfsimply.com/surf-coaching/vol ... ht-ratios/

The bit about 4 -4.5lb/litre being the max to duck dive - although that assumes you know how to duck dive

I weigh about the same as you and used to surf in central california. I found that up to 38 liters is pretty easily duck-divable. But, as DTC says, that strays into shortboard territory which may not be suitable for beginner surfers. Also, having a board which is easier to duck-dive is one thing; you still need to learn how to master the duck-dive which takes longer to master.

My advice: get an absolute beater of a shortboard (150 or less) just to learn how to duck dive and paddle around the line-up to get comfortable in bigger waves, and maybe catch a few. See out the winter that way, and log the smaller days. Craigslist would be your best resource here. If you struggle, hey, 150 is better than buying a new board and sucking. (I speak from experience).

Norcal surf can be pretty raw, stay safe out there.

I also surf NorCal waves - Ocean Beach - although I wouldn't say that I have it dialed in the least. NorCal is very exposed and picks up lots of swell from all directions. If it's beach break you're surfing (like OB or Pacifica) then that also means that the sand bars are shifting and therefore the peaks are shifting to a large degree as well. Within a single hour, tides and swell can change enough that waves go from peaky, hollow tubes to big sloping closeouts. In short, that means that you can paddle out with a board that's perfect (for you) in those conditions only to have the conditions change and you find yourself wishing you were on a different ride.

In fact, it's notoriously tough. When the WSL tour came through SF, pros were complaining that the peak always seemed to be 30-50yds in the wrong direction (north, south, inside, outside). Plus, Dusty Payne exited his heat against Jordy Smith because he saw a great white.

If you've only just started surfing in July, then you can expect to get your ass handed to you on a regular basis regardless what board you're on, especially since we've been getting so much swell lately. Ultimately, you should prioritize what you want out of a session: making it through the whitewater? getting comfortable and finding position in big surf? catching big waves? As dtc says, these are competing priorities when you're still a beginner.

Even guys with experience will get rejected on overhead NorCal beachbreak. Learn how to read the break, look for the channels, time your paddle, ask an exiting surfer which way the current is flowing, then ask the Sea for mercy, and that 9'6" will get you out to the lineup faster than a shortboard will. Once you're out, work on getting comfortable in good position and that longboard will also help you get over any outside, cleanup sets that swing through (they will). When you've got that dialed, try shoulder hopping or knifing your drops and you'll find that 9'6" will get you in early (if you're paddling hard enough) and will be far more stable than a shortboard in the same conditions. If you've got all of that covered, then you can probably drop 2ft off your 9'6" and progress from there, BUT you still won't be able to duck dive a 7'6" with any great success.

All that to say, "Don't get discouraged, just get better!" Good luck!

Thanks for the replies all. Seems like I just need to figure out how to paddle out more efficiently for the time being. When I do get a shortboard it will most likely be a craigslist purchase (like my longboard was). Thanks for the tip on NorCal surf surferbee ... Going to keep at it with the 9'6" at my usual spot at Lindamar. Thanks again.

Lindamar can be pretty brutal at times if you're in the wrong spot. Look for the gaps/channels where waves are breaking less (where guys are kicking out of the end of their rides). Watch when the sets are done, and watch where experienced surfers are paddling out. More than once I've passed people on the way out to the lineup who jumped in the water 10min earlier simply because they weren't timing the sets and just kept getting beat down by the shore pound.

Not all 9'6"s' are created equal. If it has 50/50 rails a big squash tail and a single fin, I could see why it's had to get out with in beach break. I think going down to a 7'0" we'll be too much of a jump and you'd still not be able to duck dive it. I would work down in steps to a 8'2" mini-tanker with three thruster fins. After that go 7'0" ish. The area you need to paddle into the waves from 9'6" to 7'0 is a big difference.
Getting a board you can duckdive but not catch waves with is like putting the carriage in front of the horse.