I've never been athletic. I've never cared for the competition of most sports, or been particularly fond of relying on teammates.
Surfing meanwhile - man, it's the only sport I've ever tried and felt right about. It's perfect for me.
Well, at least I feel like it is - I've only surfed twice before, both times on vacation in Encinitas in the summer of 2016. Being a native Arkansan, I almost never get a chance to surf. I was self-conscious about ever even trying - I felt foolish. But I tried anyway, and I loved it. I took a lesson and managed to get up on my own a few times before our trip was over. I lament that I waited until the trip was nearly over to even try, because it was just awesome.
But this summer I get to go back. My wife and I are going to Encinitas again, and this time I've got a board rented for the whole week. We have a car with a roof rack rented, I've got a 9' foam board rented, and I'm going to get back out there. I'm so pumped.
Any tips on staying safe, ways to be a respectful learner, or good beginner surf spots in or near Encinitas would be very appreciated.