, and I figured I’d finally register, login, and say hello (and say thank you for all the amazing info thus far……THANK YOU!). I also figured this would be a good time to write a ridiculously long post and ask my first question. Ha!I’m Tommy. I’m from the states (more specifically Rhode Island, which is in New England, just south of Boston, Massachusetts and about 3 hours north of NYC). I started surfing in late September of last year (so, about 6-7 months ago). I’m 45 years old, 5’8” (on a tall day), about 165lbs, and fairly athletic (I’m certainly not going to win any awards, but I’m not a couch potato either - I still work out a few times a week and can even still play hockey with the young kids and not look completely stupid).
Rhode Island is small but has a ton of coastline, so I grew up around the ocean doing the regular kid stuff – swimming, body surfing, body boarding, fishing, crabbing, etc. (in the summers, as winters are pretty brutal here) – but never surfing. So, I’m not a total newbie in the ocean, but I’m also not an experienced waterman by any stretch. Since I started surfing, I’ve averaged about 1-2 sessions per week, but I also incorporate a good amount of surf-based land exercises/stretches/yoga/etc. when I’m not in the water. I also recently purchased a Flowskate, which is sort of a Carver knock off, and I’m trying to get on that thing at least 2-3 times per week these days (that’s a new thing for me, however, so not much progress there just, yet.) Assuming I’m disciplined enough to stick with the surfskating, I’ll reward myself with a Carver or Smoothstar.
So far, I’ve only surfed one spot. It’s a sandy bottomed beach break. It’s a beginner’s spot, and it’s is known for being a bit crappy because it’s small and closes out a lot. More advanced surfers tend to stay away, it seems.
Anyhow, my first time out, I took a surf lesson (typical push-you-into-the-wave lesson). After the lesson I was hooked, and I started to grab rentals every week and head out on my own. Like most, I started on foamies – mostly 8 footers. After about my 9th or 10th session, I decided to buy a hard top - an 8’6” Torq (8’6” x 22 ¾ x 3 1/8 72L). At that point, I felt like I was ready for the hardtop, as I had had general success catching and riding white water and getting to my feet fairly cleanly on the foamies. My technique was far from perfect, but it seemed like I was at least ready to move on from rentals.
Soon I found that I had probably made a mistake. The Torq was great, but I don’t think I was quite ready for the instability. I was able to catch waves a good amount of the time, but I’d get to my feet maybe 20% of the time and I had to sit so deep to catch the waves that by the time I did stand up the wave would be closing out almost immediately. Hard truth: I needed to get back on something a little more stable, get back in the white water, and work on controlling my board and getting to my feet more effortlessly. I found a 9’ Soft top EZ-Slider Liquid Shredder (9’0 x 24.5” x 3″ 95L) for pretty cheap, and I got back in the white water and started to put some work in. Soon my paddling, stand-up, and just general water presence had improved enough that I felt comfortable trying to paddle outside and catch some small green waves. I stayed on that board for about 3 months and saw much improvement in terms of catching waves and taking off. Recently, I switched back to the 8’6” and am now much more confident on it.
Here’s a few links of some of my surfing for reference:
https://youtu.be/If8LhDuvUvM
https://youtu.be/FSEq_Rk6KkA
https://youtu.be/F_CwVYdOTLY
https://youtu.be/uzyeYowGxv4
The first two of the videos are from February and I’m on the 9’ foamie. The other two are on the Torq and they’re from this month. NOTE: The third video has two surfers taking off at the same time – I’m the one on the right of the screen……the other guy is obviously much better than me lol.
So, to sum up. I’m a 6-7 month beginner, and while I think I’ve done pretty well with the time I’ve had in the water, I’m certainly nothing special. That said, I’ve beginning to wonder whether I should consider trying a new break.
There’s another break close by that has a more consistent peak (breaks over cobblestone). But because of that, there’s also a bunch of real surfers surfing it that I would need to contend with. I’m not afraid of the crowd, but I also want to be respectful – I don’t want to show up somewhere that I’m clearly not ready for and get in people’s way or take waves away from better surfers. So, the question(s) I have been asking myself is: Should I head to this other break and get in the mix? Or am I still too beginner level to even be thinking about that at this point? (FYI the other break isn’t any more dangerous; I’d be fine in terms of safety. I’m more worried about the kook-factor…….. as I in I don’t want to be one LOL).
My gut tells me to stay where I’m at, and if I can master that break, then I will be that much better on a good break when the time comes. But as I progress, I wonder if that’s truly the best idea. Most of the waves I catch close out before I have a chance to do anything with them (even though three of the four videos I’ve posted suggest somewhat otherwise lol. Fact is, those were picked from a bunch of others that were just straight close outs). I am thinking that maybe a better break that offers more time on the wave will help me progress faster. I feel like, at my current break, either my 8’6” isn’t enough board for me to get in the wave early enough to do something with it before it closes out or I’m just not good enough yet to do so (I was able to get in earlier with the foamie, but I feel like I’ve progressed past the foamie stage and need to learn how to ride something a little more difficult like the Torq). Maybe the break just isn’t good for someone my size and skill level on an 8’ 6”? Maybe I should just move to the better break so I can start learning how to do things like trim etc.?
On the other hand, maybe, even if I’m right that my current break isn’t well suited for the 8’6”, choosing to stay at that break is my chance to master how to read waves better in a more challenging environment and practice finding the best take off spot, reading the close-out, and learning to dismount right away. I’ve noticed that good surfers (on any break) are really good at that – they can see when a section is going to close out and they dismount, and do it super gracefully. I’m terrible at it. Maybe I should just work on that? (Despite that it would mean that, on a lot of waves, I’ll be catching it, taking off, and dismounting within a second or two of the take-off. Kind of like the guy on the left of the screen in that 3rd video…….although he’s on a 10’ – I asked him that day – and he gets in the wave a bit earlier than I do).
In the short time I’ve been doing this, I’ve learned this much at least: contrary to what we think as beginners when we first start, surfing is about wayyyyyyyyyy more than standing on a surfboard and riding down the line. It’s about paddling out the back efficiently and without getting in people’s way, it’s about paddling in general, it’s about positioning, it’s about wave selection, it’s about etiquette, it’s about board control so you don’t kill someone or yourself, it’s about proper dismount, it’s about not bailing your board, etc. It's about simple fundamentals and respect (listen to me sounding like I know what I'm talking about
). Being able to rip is honestly low on my list right now. Being a respectful surfer who takes the time to learn the basics is my focus. And let’s face it, I’m a 6-7 month surfer; I’m not particularly good at any of these things yet (although my paddling isn’t bad and I’ve definitely improved in terms of staying out of people’s way). So, there’s a lot to work on that doesn’t require a perfect, peeling break. So maybe I stay where I’m at? I’m certainly not looking to be that kook that shows up at the good break and pisses the better surfers off, and the break I surf is known as the beginner spot, so it’s a bit more forgiving in that regard.……But, then again, maybe forgiving is not what I need at this point. Maybe the fear of pissing off someone else is what I need to kick in a new level of learning.
Now I sound like Vizzini: “So, clearly I cannot choose the wine in front of me!!” (I hope someone gets that reference)
This real IS a long ass rambling post! HA! Sorry.
Anyhow, thanks in advance for any advice. And thanks even more for all of the awesome information you all have provided already.
--Tommy
