Remember: Periodically Remove Wax To Inspect Board

[billie_morini]

Here are some photos made this evening following board wax removal. These notes and photos are provided as encouragement to periodically remove the wax from your board to allow inspection.

Prior to wax removal, It as possible to see a circular, 2 inch (6 cm) diameter dent near tail. Wax was removed from entire board to allow thorough inspection. Of course, wax was removed in order to fill observed dent with resin. Following wax removal from entire board, it was possible to see a 1 inch (2.54 cm) near stringer (Photo 1, red line). This was a surprise because glass were previously applied over the cracked area to remedy cracking along nearly entire stringer length on board top and bottom (Photo 1, blue arrow). This older repair involved application of two layers of glass applied on top and bottom of board along stringer. However, crack at red line occurred. This crack was not visible with wax on board.

Applying pressure near crack forced water droplets to exit crack (Photo 2). Taste test indicated this was salt water.

Remedy involves drilling hole into soft, wet spot on center of crack indicated by red line (Photo 3). Application of pressure following drilled hole, forced additional salt water to exit board (Photo 4). Two additional holes were drilled; one to the right & one to the left of first hole shown in photo.

Compressed air was used to blow water and drill cutting out of holes. Board will be placed in direct sunlight tomorrow to evaporate remaining water from holes. Poly resin will be mixed and placed in holes. A thin resin layer will be spread across the surface over filled holes and covering an approximate area of 1 by 1.5 inches (2.54 x 4 cm). Poly resin containing wax will be used to facilitate sanding. Prior to resin application, board surface area will be sanded with 100 or 220 grit dry paper to facilitate resin adhesion.

Wet sanding will follow applied resin curing. Wet paper with water and dish soap will be used. First paper will be 220 grit. Second paper will be 600 grit. If resin is not smooth enough to begin with 220 grit wet paper, then dry 100 grit paper will be used to begin sanding.

[RobSF]

I saw this after taking all the wax off the board I bought a month ago and have surfed half a dozen times. Found a couple of slight pressure dents but no cracks or other weakness.

I did get an entire bar's worth of wax off the board, though, and am now trying to think is something used wax could be good for.

[dtc]

You could melt it down, strain it through a sieve and create a new bar

[oldmansurfer]

Usually when you melt it heavy stuff goes to the bottom and light stuff goes to the top leaving the middle just wax. I recycle my wax by placing it all in a flexible plastic cup and putting that in a pot and adding enough water to not float the cup but come pretty close to it the slowly heat up the water on a low setting on the stove. It doesn't need to boil to melt the wax but it takes some time. Mostly my recycled wax has sand in it that goes to the bottom then I shave off that layer and toss it. the top is usually clean as is the rest but I haven't heard of anyone else doing this and I don't use a wetsuit so that black stuff Is neoprene? Not sure how that will go.

[RobSF]

This is a great idea, you guys. I honestly wasn't sure if it was possible to recycle to the stuff, but it sounds like it is. I feel bad enough about the junk we put in the oceans without having to toss . . . the whole ball of wax.

The black stuff is mostly sand, I think, not rubber. Will try some smelting this week and give a report.