by Geezer » Thu Mar 21, 2024 5:17 am
I don’t agree with your friend at all. Smaller board is easier to handle in and out of the water. As with anything, correct techniques should be utilized but I would never say turtling a smaller board was anything but easier.
Getting out back when it is bigger, easier or harder depending on the board? Lots of factors come into play. Learning how to surf a particular break in a variety of conditions with a bigger board will only help you when you attempt the same on a shorter/smaller board. Learning hiw to look for channels, time sets and take advantage of lulls, how to punch through a wave face just under the lip, where rips and other currents are and how they fluctuate in relation to swell size, wave period and coefficient ratings. It teaches you how to be tough and persevere as well because to be fair, sometimes you will still get caught out and will not have the duck dive as an option and will need to be able to stay calm and stay on task to make it out back. That is part of learning as well; finding out where NOT to be. LOL
I have boards in many sizes. There are longer/high volume board techniques like duck dipping and twisting the board to sink it deeper at the right moment that can be learned, but for the most part I try to punch though whitewater and lips as much as I can and if I need to get under, l’ll duckdive, duck dip or turtle roll depending on the board I am using, size of the wave, the spot/situation I am in when it gets to me and how deep I need to get.
Just one note; don’t ditch your board as a technique or standard practice. Occasionally on an open break if you are 100% sure no one is near your radius or downrange where whitewater might spin you out in that somebody’s path, it might save you from a beating. But it is bad form and as mentioned can be extremely dangerous when ithers are around. Pay the penance and take the penalty for being in the wrong place at the wrong time and hold that board for dear life.