Super frustrating session

[oldmansurfer]

Beginner intermediate advanced. I guess we all want to believe we are progressing. That we are beyond what we were before. I just surf so I haven't heard any definition of these designations till I started coming to this board but there are some people, particularly surf instructors who have made up all these levels like intermediate beginner, advanced beginner, so that surfers can feel like they are progressing faster since learning to surf is a slow process. It's just words don't worry. Enjoy yourself and make sure you progress. It's unlikely you will ever surf as good as a pro but it's not you that is everyone will likely not surf as good as a pro. But that is okay you can still learn to surf and have fun surfing.

[fevahdawg]

Well, I wanted to know what I was doing wrong because I’d do it over anything else.

[jaffa1949]

Hi Fevahdawg, when I offered thoughts of you being a beginner it was after reading all your post.h
However let’s look at the first post in this thread, your description of using a 6’2” puddle jumper ( groveller) pretty much covered your frustration.

You also assessed that position and paddle ability was a problem being exhausted and having to kick your legs.
Finding yourself at the top of the wave at each failed attempt and wondering why you could get down into the wave.
So you were most likely too far back on your board nose higher than it needed to be, I call it the snow plough paddle, you are pushing water and failing to generate paddle power.
Steeper waves you need to be able to match the waves speed with just a few strokes and take a couple of extra strokes to ensure you are moving down the waves face pulled by gravity ( not pushed by the wave) the shorter the board the more you have too quickly engage with the steeper wave face and drive nose down below the top of the wave.

There has been quite a few tips about this on the previous page,take your longer board, go have fun get you skills evolved and then come down in size, the common trap is to think shorter is easier, more manouvreable etc, it ain’t unless you have developed the skills.

You will improve as you get fitter and use appropriate boards, your current technique is like playing a full round of golf with a putter and wondering why.

Oh and everyone here has frustrating days at any level and blue sky days when everything just gels!

[Lebowski]

I think everyone categorises people based on their own experience level. Anyone worse is a beginner, anyone better is 'advanced'. It doesn't really matter what you label it. Most surfers will have a decent opinion of your ability just from watching you paddle out.

By the way, some students can ride green waves down the line in their first ever lesson, but they are still most definately beginners.

[waikikikichan]

Okay, from now on I consider you not a beginner. I'll just forget about monikers and labels. But remember YOU wanted to be a Pro surfer making money with your own surfboard model ( and coffee mug )

But look at what your posting said....... Frustration. When could a person be frustrated ?
1) playing Chess against a higher level opponent
2) pick up basketball 1 on 1 against the "doctor"
3) Judo yellow belt against a blue belt
4) Taking calculus 251 when you couldn't pass 101
5) Going out on the track with a 400cc MX just after learning on a 125cc.
6) Dropping down on a Black Diamond run when you should be on a Green hill

You are frustrated because you are out of your league ( for now ) It could be you physical power ( or speed and reaction times), it could be your choice of enviroment or playing field. It could be the choice of vehicle. You want respect among your peers, right ? You feel being called a "beginner" is being dissed. Well respect is earned not given. Words are cheap, prove them wrong with your actions.

But let me give MY qauge on what beginners can't do. They can't kick out of the wave consistently after every ride. They shoot their board out or jump off after the wave ends ( and rely on the leash to "save" them). Can you consistently kick out of the wave on your feet ?

[jaffa1949]

I love doing Island and standing Island pull outs

[fevahdawg]

Yeah, maybe being a pro surfer was an unrealistic goal, but that won’t stop me from getting good. I will use my 7’0 every session (except if it’s almost perfectly clean, no chop, short paddle out) for the rest of 5’4 season, and when switching into a 3’2 and eventually board shorts, using that thing will be much easier. You can’t rush perfection. Also, that’s for the insane amount of advice

[IB_Surfer]

I’ll have trouble accepting that, but its true that I’ve been surfing for two years (which isn’t that long at all) But just to add, during the summer, I had no problem catching waves on a board about a foot bigger with no wetsuit. However, in terms of winter surfing, I 100% agree with being a beginner. What are some good routines, like HIIT for building paddling stamina?

I just had a skunk session in baja. It was about 6ft with 10ft faces, the big waves where just exploding, big closeouts with no shoulders, and the smaller ones set you up to get worked by the bigger ones. So after going over the falls twice I ended up leaving the lineup and paddling back in. After 25 years of surfing I still have my occassional goose egg session, you just had one of many to come. I still had a blast, laughter underwater as I tumbled underwater...

[elijah86]

Just returned from my fourth-ever winter surf session in NJ, and honestly, I'm feeling pretty bummed. Not a single wave caught, zero success. To add to the frustration, I experienced breathing issues, extreme nausea, and weak, lifeless arms. It dawned on me that my positioning was off, consistently ending up on the wave's crest. Could using a 6'2 puddle jumper (groveller) in steep waves have made dropping in more challenging? Should I consider going up a size next time? Disappointing to get worked without catching any waves.

[Naeco78]

Hey man, sorry to hear about the rough session. I've noticed that too about high volume/wide nose boards.. they seem to get hung up in the lip when paddling into steep waves. NJ waves can be kinda tricky too.. it can change a lot within the same day

[oldmansurfer]

Sounds like you have to work on your conditioning as well. Longer boards tend to be more forgiving as you can be out of place both in the lineup and on the board and still do okay. But everything goes better if you are more conditioned to paddling.