
What They Say - The stories that comprise this book cover a variety of eras, locations, and players in the arena of big wave surfing. For anyone who wants to know more about the obsession of those who commit themselves down the face of monstrous, capably murderous waves, and go beyond that virtually feeling the air and water rushing around you in the midst of ocean mayhem, this book will deliver. An awesome read.
What We Say - Big Waves, Big Men
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