Surfing Waves

hello all!

I currently surf a min mal 7'6 and am not quite sure what to do when catching steeper waves and avoid pearling. What advice does everyone have? I know that with steeper waves I should paddle more, but when is it a good time to stop paddling? I get nervous on steeper waves and tend to stop paddling once my board is raised, because i feel that if i over paddle i won't stand up in time and just get thrashed. Also, upon the drop, how does a person turn and surf midwave before reaching bottom of drop? Sorry about the newbie questions.

A few things, any of which might help....

Catch the wave earlier. Dont wait until its breaking.

Shift back a little bit on your board.

Arch your back.

Paddle... paddle hard. Dont wait until the wave makes the board move, it should already be moving.

As soon as the wave cacthes the board, stand up. Dont wait til your flying down the face.

Look where you want to go (ie along the face) rather than down the drop.

When you've stood up, stay low, crouch down (in the classic 'surfer stance').


Takes time too, dont run before you can walk.

same as above, not much els can be said, but i will express the arch your back, i find that just arching you back makes the world of difference

As the wave is approaching you can also start paddling in the direction you want to end up going (angling into the wave, instead of paddling perpendicular).
Also, (not sure if I can explain/word this properly) when you go to stand up, you can put more pressure on the inside and sort of pull the board into the wave so that the front end isn't just sticking straight out ready to dive into the depths below.


As far as turning and surfing mid-wave, it's just a matter of reacting faster.

One bit I might add to the excellent advice already given is that once you take off, move quickly to the rear of the board, and then when you know your nose is out of the water, dash forward. Sounds complicated, but it's not really, just a matter of training. The idea is to avoid having your nose dip into the water in front of you, hence moving toward the tail. Once you make the drop, rush forward to gain speed and avoid the wave breaking behind you. This should all happen in about 2-3 seconds. It's always scarey taking off on steep waves, but once you get the hang of it, well, it's still scarey, but you can catch some mighty fine rides.

as always, all your advice is much appreciated. i will definately apply what i have learned in the water.

Everyone above is on the money.

I'd add that the bigger your board is the harder you'll need to put your weight right back on the tail of the board... Excactly as you stand up.

So my 9'6" singlefin is a lot trickier in headhigh+ surf than my 6'4" thruster.

-doug

I get nervous on steeper waves and tend to stop paddling once my board is raised, because i feel that if i over paddle i won't stand up in time and just get thrashed.

my advice is that whatever you do DO NOT stop paddling and let this happen because that always ends up bad. Its all just confidence and getting in earlier on bigger waves, once you get one good one you will be hooked and you will just be frothing to get more.

as far as turning onto the waves green face, when your popping up look along the face either frontside or backside, this will also make it less scary because you arent looking straight down at a big drop

Hey guys, my first post here.

Just wanted to say thanks for all of the tips listed in this thread. I'm just getting into surfing on a 7'8 mini-mal... only been out around 5 times now (2 times "properly"; 3-5 hour sessions).

I've been wondering the same things as Huntingtonsurf80's been asking about. I learnt the fundamentals of surfing from this web site before even buying my board, but I think the tips that have given the biggest amount of change (for me, at least) are in this thread. It's amazing how much difference just arching your back and crouching does! A lot more control moving along the face of the wave - I can't wait until the next good swell down here and try on bigger, better-formed waves (I battled for 5 hours today waiting for any sketchy waves at all I could get my hands on... Saturday was incredible, but I could only manage to move perpendicular to the break).

The first time gliding along the face of the wave and dragging your hand along is such an amazing feeling... would have taken me a long time to figure out without these tips.

So thanks.

when you say arching your back, i'm assuming you're talking about arching your back before/during the pop up? not while standing, right?

Arch your back at all times while you are laying on your board. When you stand up you no longer have to worry about it.

I have found that your back should always be arched when paddling on your board. I think what they are getting at is: You need to arch even more when the wave starts picking you up, a second before you pop up. Or in other words really sink your hips into the board.

I agree with all the above. I think the big points are 1) start out a little further on bigger waves 2) angle your board a little to the wave 3)Paddle harder and when you feel your board start to glide across the wave pop up and look where you want to go on the wave.

justloafing wrote:3)Paddle harder and when you feel your board start to glide across the wave pop up and look where you want to go on the wave.

i dont agree 100% with this bit. on a steep fast wave you need to make a decision which way to go before you even paddle in and keep looking so you can see what the wave is going to do.

Go for the smaller ones first, and, most importantly, DON'T LOOK BACK, I know this is kinda dangerouse but use your ears to hear if it is breaking, but a wave looks alot ess scary when you are ontop of it than when you look at it as it is coming to you, plus, if you do get caught in whitewater, stand up as soon as possible and start making your way to the face of the wave, DON"T DITCH UNLESS YOU LOSE YOUR BALANCE, the whitewater can drag you on to the rocks (If you surf a point or reef)

I've got this problem as well. I can surf white waves but not green waves. I've tried not to face directly to the beach but when I paddle on an angle the wave either flips me over or I cant catch it. HELP!

I don't angle my board alot, just a very little bit. As Surferdude said, make a decision of which way you are going to go before you try to catch the wave. Then line yourself up and paddle for it. I actually start out straight in with the wave, as it starts to "pick me up" I angle ever so slightly to the direction I decided before to go, I paddle until I know I can stand up, then stand up. I keep my weight leaning forward and to the side I am turning into, and i glide down the wave turning to ride across the face and down.

Don't know if this makes sense, but hope it helps

Cool. Thanks alot.

So... to avoid pearling next time i go surfing:
1. angle a little
2. arch my back
3. paddle harder and earlier into the wave

just a minor point. if you're nervous of bigger waves maybe you need to get trashed a bit more. my experience so far has been that getting trashed and surviving builds confidence.

OOOhhhhhhhhhhh..... Gotta disagree, almost nothing finer than doing a "soul arch" down the line. It's a sweet glide.

probably right otter, if I could do one every time i would. as it stands, getting trashed is all part and parcel. just laugh it off head out and get trashed again and again till i get it right.