Surfing Waves

How do you get over the fear of paddling into bigger waves ?

I don't have any problem paddling out on bigger days, I'm a pretty strong paddler and can even manage a few half-assed duckdives

But when it comes to taking off on anything over 4ft I crap my pants

Up to 4ft I seem to be OK, still a bit shaky but OK.

Problem is worse when the waves are breaking shallow. I was at a local reef recently and the waves were about 4ft but really barrelling and breaking in about shoulder deep water. Couldn't go over on them. Some were closing out too which made it worse.

I really would like to charge, but my balls just won't drop.

Rodrigo

The biggest shock of paddling for bigger waves is just before you pop up, you look down and see that drop. You've basically just got to go balls on the wall and pop up. As soon as you pop up, the wave seems to get smaller.

If the reef is shoulder deep and its 4ft, then there isn't much chance you can really hurt yourself.

Charging big waves is all about controlling fear It doesnt mean you arent afraid i still get a little nervouse in big surf but i just blot out the fear and go for it

Oh and wave selection is crucial. Most wipeouts are caused by poor wave selection and not comitting to a wave properly. If you paddle for a wave comitt to it dont hesitate on take off.

Can you say more about "wave selection?" What are you looking for, or lettin pass, to avoid wipeouts?

(and when you say this, are you talking just about larger waves, or also the smaller waves a beginner like me will be starting with?)

Wave selection is important regardless of the size of wave - it just plays a crucial role in bigger surf as you really dont want to be paddling into a 6ft+ wave that is about to close down. It is also very important in extracting the best rides - if your wave knowledge is good you will more than likely select waves that will generate the best ride.

You cant really teach someone wave selection as it has to come from lots and lots of experience and water time + numerouse wipe outs. Best thing to do is practise your wave selection in smaller waves then you can translate that knowledge into bigger stuff. A good tip is to actually start consciencly(sp) reading the waves rather than trying for anything, After each wipeout or fasle start try to analyze why that happened and why that wave was different to the rest - same applies to good rides you get. Just remember every wave is different so you can't be right all the time

With wave selection, you've got to look at the wave whilst paddling for it. You've got to judge whether its going to closeout, section off, etc by just looking at it. It takes a while, but practice looking at them and watching what they do

shoulder high is quite deep, its highly unlikely you'll hit the bottom. i surf a reef that can get really shallow 2-3ft deep, and you do hit the bottom on a wipeout.

maybe it would be best to stick to beach breaks in the big surf? this may help you gain confidence on bigger waves.

as for wipeouts on big waves, they dont normally hurt that much, may get winded or something, but you'll come up laughing (most of the time)

thanks for the replies

so is it better to just say screw it and charge it head-on, or should i try and get into it slowly ?

charging head on is tough - i keep freezing up - so i need to toughen up i guess...

appreciate any further help

You just need to take it easy and get some experience in. But when you commit to a wave go for it and dont hesitate.

Straying too far from your comfort zone isnt a good idea either - in saying that you do need to cross the line every now and then.

Just go for it! After you've experienced the stoke of a shoulder/head high wave, you won't want to surf anything smaller. Pretty soon you'll be traveling the world to find double overheads...

I'm right there with ya man...

I've been surfing for almost a year now and still have heuvos issues on 5'+ days. However, if there's a nice shoulder to the left(goofy footed) on big days, I'm OK. If they are closing out quick though, forget it, I just can't force myself to take it. For me, I think it's that my pop-up isn't quick enough and I KNOW that I will wipe out.

klhoskins wrote:I think it's that my pop-up isn't quick enough

Do a bunch of push-ups on the off days and you'll get there.