longboard on bigger waves

[CastorTroy]

Hey,

So, I'm riding an 8'4" and I can surf small waves (2'-4') really well. I successfully ride about 80% of the time.

But whenever the waves get to be like 4'-7', it's just impossible for me to make the drop. Whenever a wave comes, I go for the drop, and I am essentially going straight down and my board is nearly perpendicular to the water. Am I approaching the wave incorrectly? Or is my board just too big to be surfing these types of waves?

[dougirwin13]

Put your weight way back on the tail and shift it forward as you get closer to the bottom of the face.

As usual technique and timing are critical with a bigger board.

-doug

[boco rio]

It is essential that you make an angled drop on bigger waves. Also you need to paddle harder and faster because bigger waves move faster. Look at pictures or video of the old timer greats (Knoll, Curren Sr., etc.) on the north shore. They all took off at an angle.

[Sillysausage]

yeah, paddling on an angle will help a lot, but make sure your sitting further outback than the shortboarders (if there are any) and paddle hard and fast

[Dec]

Sounds like you're sitting too deep in. You should sit further out and you should already have popped up before you even have to drop.

Good luck!

[farside]

I agree, sitting tooooooo deep sounds like the No.1 issue, sit a bit further out, paddle hard and get on early. Sometimes if the waves are jacking up quick and steep try sliding back further on your board to avoid getting pitched. Longboards usually lack much of a rocker, so the priority with bigger waves is to get your first turn in quick and get tracking accross the wave asap.
An angled paddle in will help but dont go overboard, getting pitched and smashed from this position is ugly although it does look as funny as f**k.

[Ed McDead]

Yeah, could be too far inside - or you could be waiting to long to pop - on steep and fast waves you need to get the timing right and hit your feet as early and smoothly as possible and then immediately get into position to drive out of your bottom turn.

oh yeah and you will get pounded a few more times til you get it right!