Surfing Waves

I often find myself waiting for sets at the wrong spots. I'd be a bit too far towards the ocean, while the waves would break closer to shore. Here's what happens:

1) I spot an incoming set, and I turn my board to face shore.
2) I paddle with all I got.
3) The wave builds up it's height, but it remains green as it passes underneath me. I feel the "weak" push.
4) The wave passes me by and ends up breaking a bit further down.
5) The push goes away and I bob back down to a halt.

Obviously, I want to be in a better position, but I've seen other surfers catch these sets despite starting out on "green" stuff. How do they do that?

I'm 5'8", and I'm on a funshape.

Thanks

It's kinda hard to tell, but the most obvious answer is if you don't have the paddle power, then move in and catch the waves later, just make sure you have a good pop up. You are also probably lying too far back on the board, so try moving forward a little.

The reason others can catch the waves further out could be down to many reasons; board size and shape, experience and positioning both on the board and in the lineup, paddle strength etc.

Just work on paddling, move around in the lineup and work on positioning, there's no simple answer.

Good luck.

Yup, first suspect paddle power.

After that, its also a matter of balance.
You need to have your weight over the front of the board - head down, dont lean back until you've caught the wave, dont put your hands on the deck too early, keep your feet up and out of the water, dont put too much weight through your knees.

Oh, and REALLY go for it. REALLY paddle.

dbbb wrote:Oh, and REALLY go for it. REALLY paddle.

thats very true. work on your technique so u get the most power you can out of every stroke. that way you need less strokes to paddle in.

the way i do it is to take long deep strokes. to get the most power it needs to be as smooth as possible as well. so when you put your hand in the water to start a stroke try not to make a splash as your wasting energy if you do. accelerate your hand once its in the water so its moving fastest at the end of the stroke. dbbb will tell you im quite an efficient paddler when it comes to catching waves n thats what i do. remember you do need to paddle really hard to catch green waves. but by making it all smooth your being the most efficient.

oh yeah and when you think youve caught the wave do one more paddle.

Awesome responses dudes.

Yeah, I definitely need to work on my paddling. It's not efficient and I'm not going very far with each stroke.

Also as you guys mentioned, I'm most likely not distributing my weight correctly when I'm paddling to catch. As of right now, whether I'm paddling from shore to get to the zone or paddling to catch, my weight is positioned such that the nose of my board is about 1.5 inches off the water. I don't know how useful that info is, since I noticed that not all boards have the same "rocker" (if I'm using the correct term). My 7'6" funshape has both a front and rear rocker.

I once tried positioning myself such that the nose was exactly flush with the water. As I paddled for the green wave, it ended up flipping me over when I lost balance after tipping more and more forward. There was more of an acceleration to the push compared to having paddling with a nose sitting above the water.

Where do you guys have your nose when you paddle? And, should the position be the same for the paddle out and the paddle in?

chickentendah wrote:Where do you guys have your nose when you paddle? And, should the position be the same for the paddle out and the paddle in?

No. It took me a little while to find the right positon for both paddling out and paddling to catch waves. I'm further back on my board to paddle in. It also changes with the size of the waves.

chickentendah wrote:the nose of my board is about 1.5 inches off the water.... I once tried positioning myself such that the nose was exactly flush with the water.

I think the 'ideal' is somewhere in between the two, but iI find its just a matter of feeling it. I know that's not overly helpful! I'd guess having the nose a little closer to the water than you do now, so lying a little further forward...but then if you are too far forward, the flipping happens!! Practice practice practice!

Eithier move up more on your board, catch the wave closer to shore, or paddle harder. It could be the combination of any of the three. Make sure to arch your back when you get up. What I mean is if you see a wave coming, lean forward but heave ur back arched back, I can't really explain it, sorry, keep trying though.

I reckon its more about wave selection, if your sat out back with everyone else, then your in the right spot. If the wave is passing you by adn breaking on the inside then your paddling for the wrong waves.

What I have come to realize and have done. I had a huge pearling (nose going under and flipping) problem. It was not that I was to far forward but I was not angled at the wave correctly and was not shifting my weight quick enough. Don't go straight on a wave angle yourself on the wave. Also even though I was angled and just as I was catching the wave (no more paddling needed) I would sometimes pearl. What I did was just really sink my hips into the board to get my weight a little further back and the nose pops out like a charm.

Catching unbroken waves is all about positioning. It easiest on the peak ie the first point where the wave turns critical and starts to break.

This means paddling into a wave just before (and I mean just) or as it breaks, although on a mellow beachbreak where the wave is spilling you can get away with a later takeover and still make a green face. You will get it wrong sometimes when you are learning and get a proper pounding, if you're not then you are probably trying to take waves too early.

Watch what other surfers are doing. You'll see several things:

They hang around in groups on the outside just beyond where the best peaks are breaking
They don't paddle for every wave by any means
They identify their wave early and are as likely to paddle sideways/diagonally for a good few strokes to get on the peak before turning and taking off.
They miss loads of waves and/or pull out early.

On a beach break it takes experience to learn which wave will break, where and when as sand banks may not be very defined and so the peaks move around a lot. You can do worse that watching were the best wave of the last set broke and paddling just outside that point as that may well be the best place on the next set (or maybe not . . .)

I don't usually paddle long into waves - few fast strokes diagonally and the a couple stong pulls onto the wave. But I can take off late and deep as i'm quick into my surfing - probably becuase I'm basically a lazy git. I often watch people coming from 15 yards outside me, paddle like a demented thing past me and catch the wave way inside - being nice I usually resist the temptation to turn, paddle a couple of stokes and take the wave off them.

Basically what I'm saying is try to spend more effort getting on the peak rather than just paddling hard for the beach every time a wave comes past.