Surfing Waves

okay, well this is my first post! anyways, i've been surfing for about 3 weeks now and i can pop up and surf it in just fine, but now i need to turn... i'm nat. footed but i just wanted to see about getting a few tips before i go out this weekend. Also, my neph. is 5 yrs old... what size of board would be good for him? thanks for any responses!

Are you able to ride the face of the wave? How tall is your nephew and how much does he weigh?

yeah, i'm able to ride the face, but i just go foward, run out of momentum, and sink. he is about 4 ft and probably weighs 40 - 60 lbs. i dont really know what a 5 or 6 yr old is supposed to weigh. i'd say in that region tho. if its a big deal, i'll find out though.

intothewave1985 - are you taklking abotu whietwater or getting out back & catching clean waves?

popup - clean in one move or..?

Am I slow, after 2 years I can get out back , just about catch nice clean waves & get a bottom turn in then go straight in good trim...

The wave is probably too small or your riding too far past the breaking part. I suggest you get Taj Burrow's book of hot surfing, it has a lot of trick tips. Your nephew should probably ride something around 6 feet. When I was about that tall I had a 5'6'' but, I didn't really surf then it was just for paddling. The 6 ft. will give him more flotation to learn and when he gets bigger and better he will grow into it.

RJD-Your skill level depends on where you surf, how much you surf, the board(s) your riding, and how much you are trying.

I can pop up in a clean about 60 percent of the time.. i think i am catching the wave too far after it breaks... that's a good tip! i never thought about that. i have another question as well! Would practicing popping up in my living room be beneficial at all?

Catching whitewater is just the start.

Getting out back & catching clean waves is a whole other level.

You wont be able to turn realy on broken waves.

well, i'll try paddling a bit earlier and a bit harder and see what happens... i can really feel a difference in power when i catch a wave before it breaks and JUST after it breaks... but either way, i still sink...

taking a wave at a slight angle helps to make the turn. You should also be posiioned so you start paddling early this will give you some momentem.

Also depends on what board your riding too, longboard you want to catch the wave further out than a short board.

You need to paddle the board up to the speed of the wave to catch it & pop up quicky(well smoothly) as your catching it, too late and you'll bury the nose, paddle at a slight angle (away from where the wave will break) once on your feet try get a bottom turn in & ride along the face.

well, i ride a 7'6" NSP funshape. it's not too manueverable, but the surf pro told me it's a great learner board. does everyone come out at an angle coming into the wave or is it just a beginner thing and i'll pick up the right way later?

If you take off straight at the beach the wave pushes you well forward ahead of the wave, then you slow down, then the wave catches you up. typicaly you've lost too much speed & end up wiping out.

You want to surf at the breakin 'curl of the wave if you can (i.e. away from the broken part of the wave) and ALONG the face of the wave NOT into the shore.

To do that you paddle at a slight angle, away from where the wave is going to break, but not too much of an angle as then you'll get rolled over. It requires a touch more speed/paddling as your moving at an angle to the wave.

Once you take off on the wave you'll be heading nose first downwards (mostly, at a slight angle) you then need to turn the board so your going across/allong the wave.

Your board 'fun' sized (neither short nor long) you wont be able to catch waves as far out as a longboard (nor will it be as stable) but it should manouevr moer quickly than a 9ft equivelant.

It also might be worth mentioning that if you are natural footed you are more than likely enclined to ride frontside (facing the wave) this is not always the case im natural but prefer backside. But to begin with riding frontside will likely allow you to make your turns sharper and more stable.

Taking off on a wave at a slight angle also helps with pearling(nose dive). If you want to turn look to where you want to go. The board will follow your line of site. I did that last year and was so stoked. I got to the bottom of the wave and looked to my right and it was like magic the board just turned. Now mind you I ride a 9'0" but I would imagine it would work for a funboard. If we ever get any more waves I want to brush up a little and then try to do more with leaning.

awesome! i'll try that. now since i am a nat footer, when i'm not facing the wave do i turn goofy foot to face it or do i stay natural?

I've been surfing for about a year now, and I still find it really difficult to turn and go along the face. But just keep on perservering, it really does come with practice.

Oh, and....

isaluteyou wrote:...im natural but prefer backside...

That's what she said!

intothewave1985 wrote:awesome! i'll try that. now since i am a nat footer, when i'm not facing the wave do i turn goofy foot to face it or do i stay natural?

No, you just ride with your back to the wave.

When your starting your more likely to want to turn backhand as when you fall off you fall backwards.

You should get over it quickly & practice both sides.

I see your in Fla. Probably a Beach Break. Take a look at the surf and try to pick out a good spot to surf.

I as a beginner find a place where there are not a lot of people surfing. Sometimes I do a lot of walking. Usually the best spots are taken by a lot of surfers.

When you get out and your past the break. If your looking at the beach and the waves are breaking from left to right they are "Right Handed" You will be facing the wave when riding if your natural footed. If breaking to the left (Left Handed) the wave will be to your back if your natural footed.

I have seen people switch when they are riding a wave but they were very good. Also I think it would be nice to take off either natural or goofy. On the other hand I think sticking with either natural or goofy and riding both right handed breaks with the wave face in front of you and riding a left handed break with the wave behind you may make it more fun. Getting used to waves behind you and waves in front of you would just add to the experience.