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Riding the waves...

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:44 am
by Geleph
Hey all, thanks for the great advice so far, in fact it was so good that Im now going to bother you one more time
I'm having no trouble at all paddling and catching waves, and can pretty much pop up to my feet nine times out of ten, however, once I get up there Im running into trouble. I seem to lose momentum pretty quickly and the board just "stops" in the water if you know what I mean. I figure it's something to do with where I'm putting my weight on the board but just thought I'd ask your advice. I'm 5'9" and riding a 7'3" board. I presume I want to get my weight close enough to the front of the board when I pop up but not so close so that the nose dips? I'm just wondering what I should change to actually be able to keep the momentum going!
Any and all advice appreciated!

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 9:51 am
by essex sucks
yes u got it right u need too move u wight to the frount more if u fill you self comeing off
you are strill rideing white water right or are u on the face that would make it easy for people to reply
and keep the coming

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:08 am
by Geleph
Thanks for the reply ES. Im mainly riding the white water but am slowly starting to try out the unbroken waves!
I was thinking where I was putting my weight was wrong but just wanted it to be confirmed as it's all guesswork on my part really!

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:15 am
by essex sucks
just keep trying and u will get dude main thing as i all ways say have fun doing it

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:19 am
by Geleph
Thanks again ES. I'll keep on trying anyway, and am having a whole lot of fun doing it. It's great cos I learn something new every time I get out in the water, so I'm sure it'll click with practice!

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:07 pm
by Old Guys Rule
Try experimenting where you are on the board when you start paddeling for the wave. When you find that sweet spot make a mark in your wax so you know where your head should be when paddeling for the wave. You will find depending on the well that position will change ever so slightly but you will have a good idead where to start out. Good luck and have some fun.

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:09 pm
by Geleph
Hey OGR, thanks for that. The problem's not with paddling though, it's where to actually stand/crouch/stumble when I pop up, as I can pop up ok but as soon as I get up I seem to stall the board!

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:12 pm
by essex sucks
his right where you are on the board when u are pladdling for the wave it will help too move your weight try it

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:13 pm
by rich r
Try to keep your stance wider.. a lot of times, people's feet are too close together. With a wider stance, you'll be able to lean forward more (pushing your weight forward) easier without loosing balance, as well. And you can shuffle your back foot forward a bit easier if you've placed it to far back on the tail.

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 3:12 pm
by sinistapenguin
Hey all
Once you're up and going, you need to do something to keep going, if you get momentum up and ride out in front, you will run out of speed and then the wave'll catch you and knock you off.
This'll get worse when you start catching unbroken waves, you'll drop down the face, shoot out in front, then stall and either sink or get knocked off by the whitewater. i would do the following.
Start your paddle a little further out so that you can catch the wave before it breaks, angle your take off a little so you're not heading directly at the shore. Remember - the front foot is basically the accelerator and the back foot is the brake. You need to take the drop, keep low, but keep your weight evenly spread (or slightly forward) as you get to the bottom, you need to lean in to your turn, turn your shoulders in the direction you want to go. This should push you out along the face instead of towards the shore.
If you are riding whitewater, it becomes frustrating to try and keep the board moving. The power of the wave is in the breaking part, so you need to stay close to this. Plus the natural slope of an unbroken wave gives you something to slide down!!
It's time to take your surfing to the next level!! Cheers
Sinista

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 3:29 pm
by Geleph
Thanks again to everyone, as always I've got some great advice to try out next time I get in the water. Just gonna keep my eye on the swell charts now!


Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 5:09 pm
by GowerCharger
if the waves are weak without much of a drop at the takeoff i would paddle into them at more of an angle and takeoff with my back foot further forward than usual to get pumping straight away, also try and stay high on the wave if its weak- thats where its steeper and where you can build your speed, flying out in front of it onto flat water only works if you can get enough speed from the takeoff to keep going through your bottom turn, otherwise you will stall and basically sink, which is probably whats causing you to stop and lose momentum.

Posted:
Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:05 pm
by surferdude_scarborough
can i be the first to say
WELCOME BACK SINISTA

Posted:
Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:14 am
by Dec
Wahey! Welcome back mate!
Also, Surferdude_', you got your 500th post!

Posted:
Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:48 pm
by surferdude_scarborough
yay

Posted:
Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:54 pm
by libby

Posted:
Wed Oct 18, 2006 12:18 am
by gdude335
the more you are in front is the more speed you will have. The more in back is the more control but the less speed. I find that pumping helps if you start to lose the wave. Basically just somewhat "jump" up and down on the board. Try to catch the wave before it breaks or if you want to keep on whitewater right after it breaks.