Surfing Waves

so do you need to lean in really heavily into the wave to not get trashed?

The take off was def above my head standing up and there was very little shoulder... I don't know if it's any harder on a longboard but I gave it a go and got worked. kinda fun.

I'm guessing paddle like FUK alongways, then, lean in reall good to not tip over???

help help??

Hi I don"t ride a long board myself but by the sound s of it you might be taking of on the wave abit to late for a long board ,if its that sort of size again try taking of at a slight angle and you"ll find you"ll pearl less.