Surfing Waves

I used to surf the west side of where I live which takes a long drive and I seemed to have grown used to those waves. Now that I went do a local spot not to far from my house, it was harder to catch waves. Maybe its because I didn't go surfing in a month but it seemed that the drops were steeper and I managed to pull off one nicely but the rest of the day was turtle rolling and waiting. I was wondering how to make the drop feel not so steep and how not to fall off when trying to pop up. I had a bad fall as well since I fell forward and expected water but landed on my board so I was flopping on it for a while before hitting the water.

Sounds like you are catching the wave to late. Try and catch the wave a bit earlier by sitting deeper. If you are new to a spot try and get it wired by looking at where the other surfers are waiting and catching waves.

If the break is on a shallow reef then the chances of it being a hollow steep wave is very good and there is not much you can do except for turning as soon as you pop-up.

Goodluck ...

You've just got to go for it............over and over and over again.

You'll probably fall off a lot but , hey that's how you learn

Give it a go during the high tide. Generally, more water = fuller more crumbling waves.

So what if I want to get used to these type of steeper drop waves on my 7"4? Should I pratice popping up at home and try to do it faster while paddling for the wave? I also seen on a local surfing show surfers seem to grab the rail of their board and hold on to it in the direction they're going while riding down the wave. Not sure if that will work on a funboard though lol .

I dunno about a steep drop on a longboard (is a 7'4 a longboard??.....well it is for me!!)

I suppose you would stand further back than with a mellower drop.

It's all about finding 'the spot' on your board that gives you optimum balance.

Trial and error my friend......and lots of falling off

pat42 wrote:(is a 7'4 a longboard??.....well it is for me!!)

A 7'4 is a long board, not a longboard

Anything over 6'2 is LONG

lmfao pat..what are you saying?