Surfing Waves

i've been going to school on the east coast and have been surfing as much as i could on breaks back in california for almost 2 years, but it feels like my progress learning to surf is incredibly slow. is the learning curve for girls slower? i'm 5'6" 135 pounds and very athletic and active, and i surf a 7'6" trifin hybrid/egg board. my paddling is great, but the biggest hump i have to overcome is catching unbroken waves consistently and riding it down the face. usually i pop up too late and ride the wave once i'm down the face already. also, is it harder to catch bigger waves w/a 7'6" because the rocker is so low? i usually find that the nose of my board usually gets sunk under when catching bigger waves.

also, i just started shortboarding on a 6'8". how long does it take to get comfortable with it? and how deep do you need to duck dive to get past bigger wave sets? sometimes i get caught in the cycle and tossed backwards back into the wave.

lots of questions, i know, but the help is appreciated. thanks!

Nope.

Some people get it quicker than others, but basically it just takes a long time. Keep at it.

I've been surfing years and Im still cr@p!

Going shorter when you can't surf the 7'6"... ...that's not going to help!

If you know what's wrong (usually i pop up too late and ride the wave once i'm down the face already) try different things to correct it. Do lots of push ups (of various kinds) on days you don't go surf. Try to pop up faster. Angle on the take off (will help with the bigger waves as well). Stick with the longer board. You can paddle faster and get it to waves sooner; this will help with your wave positioning.

The 6'8" is just going to be more difficult for you to stay on when you do actually get up (it's going to be way more sensitive and wobbly).

Also, slight adjustments to your positioning on the board need to be made every session for the types of waves and conditions (size and clean/choppy). Learning to surf is not easy, but stick with it; you will get it.

sorry, but women do tend to be weaker and less fit than men, however theres no reason why you shouldnt pick it up as fast or even quicker than the average guy if you keep on top of your fitness and get lots of practice, the average guy is in pretty bad condition. Everybody picks things up at different speeds so dont compare yourself to others just concentrate on your own progression and try to improve every time you get out.

GowerCharger wrote:sorry, but women do tend to be weaker and less fit than men

Careful there bud :) Askin for a firestorm.

I was contemplating saying something like this...

An average a woman is lighter and carries less muscle mass than a man. The same holds true in above average specimens of both genders. This is part of the reason that women's surf tends to be more technique oriented. There's also the social/nurture factor. Males are encouraged their whole lives to use muscle and be physically active. And in most societies the opposite is the case for women. So give a developmental hurdle (surfing or otherwise) men are (statistically, anyway) more likely to overcome that hurdle sooner... But women are more likely to overcome it with better technique when they do.

Haven't you ever wondered why mens surfing and womens surf looks different? If you really think about it (instead of "Coz their just chicks duuude!" - which means you should get back in your trailer) it becomes clear.

In the end it's watertime that will count for anyone.

-doug

I think Doug's girlfriend wrote that.

Nah (did you mean Lib <j> ;). But if I write something less PC my wife will doubtless see it.

-doug