Surfing Waves

so i have a problem with this espetually when getting out of the water. my shorts stick to my legs and sink near my private areas too. do i need now shorts or is this normal? ive had about 4 pairs now, some are worse than others, and these new ones i got at the gap that are more my size (smaller than the others) are thicker but it still happens.

another problem i have is my nose sinking in the wave while dropping in on waves3-6 feet. i know i should just put more weight on the back but i never seem to get it. it happends about 40% of the time and is very disapointing. my board is 6'2'' and im 6'1'' and 155 pounds. it seems to work fine minus getting smacked in the face when the nose sinks. the board has a little waterlog and i thought this might be the problem. ive been surfig for a year and go quite often. should i look for a new board and if so what size?

im also looking for tips on cutting back and turning up waves to drop in again. i can turn to the side alright and get barreled sometimes if i crouch, but even when a wave is forming nicely infront of me, all i can do is ride along it. i want to learn to be able to ride back up a wave.

sorry that i can't help with any of your questions (i'm just a beginner) But i was wondering about your screen name. Why do you think Hawaii sucks? I personally don't think so. it just seems weird to me for someone to say that Hawaii sucks, when it doesn't.

because it does. its hot and humid and crowded as fleshin' and theres nowhere to go. the only thing its good for is surfing, but id much rather live somewhere else like oregon or england where i can still surf with a wetsuit. i think that living here qualifys me to say it sucks more than just a visit, michigan. anyplace is really fun if youre only there for aweek or two. but when you work there and sit through the 3 mph traffic with no ac and arrive home covered in sweat and grow up as the only blonde kid around getting picked on because of it, and lose your job because some micronesian will do it for less, youll want to shoot yourself for saying hawaii is awesome. i know other places are like this too, and thats why im not saying i wnt to live in NJ where its even hotter.

fleshin' xxxxx xxxxx hell bitch ass this thing doesnt let you swear?
well another thing people think is its all nice and everyones friendly and they live in cottages across the street from the beach. well if i lived in a place like that, and there is on the other islands, and on the north shore, i might like it here too. but its hard to get jobs there, and i sure as hell dont want to drive for 2 hours to and 2 hours from work

hawaiisucks wrote:because it does. its hot and humid and crowded as xxxxx and theres nowhere to go. the only thing its good for is surfing, but id much rather live somewhere else like oregon or england where i can still surf with a wetsuit. i think that living here qualifys me to say it sucks more than just a visit, michigan. anyplace is really fun if youre only there for aweek or two. but when you work there and sit through the 3 mph traffic with no ac and arrive home covered in sweat and grow up as the only blonde kid around getting picked on because of it, and lose your job because some micronesian will do it for less, youll want to shoot yourself for saying hawaii is awesome. i know other places are like this too, and thats why im not saying i wnt to live in NJ where its even hotter.

..umm i live in NJ and its not that hott at all.. i need advice with my cutbacks, i cant seem to turn my board around all the way to advance back up the wave. Can someone help??

Anonymous wrote:

hawaiisucks wrote:because it does. its hot and humid and crowded as xxxxx and theres nowhere to go. the only thing its good for is surfing, but id much rather live somewhere else like oregon or england where i can still surf with a wetsuit. i think that living here qualifys me to say it sucks more than just a visit, michigan. anyplace is really fun if youre only there for aweek or two. but when you work there and sit through the 3 mph traffic with no ac and arrive home covered in sweat and grow up as the only blonde kid around getting picked on because of it, and lose your job because some micronesian will do it for less, youll want to shoot yourself for saying hawaii is awesome. i know other places are like this too, and thats why im not saying i wnt to live in NJ where its even hotter.

..umm i live in NJ and its not that hott at all.. i need advice with my cutbacks, i cant seem to turn my board around all the way to advance back up the wave. Can someone help??

Stay very low and bend your knees. Use your hands and swing your hips. look at where you want to exicute and fallow through. almost like "keep you eye on the ball kid".

hawaiisucks wrote:so i have a problem with this espetually when getting out of the water. my shorts stick to my legs and sink near my private areas too. do i need now shorts or is this normal? ive had about 4 pairs now, some are worse than others, and these new ones i got at the gap that are more my size (smaller than the others) are thicker but it still happens.

another problem i have is my nose sinking in the wave while dropping in on waves3-6 feet. i know i should just put more weight on the back but i never seem to get it. it happends about 40% of the time and is very disapointing. my board is 6'2'' and im 6'1'' and 155 pounds. it seems to work fine minus getting smacked in the face when the nose sinks. the board has a little waterlog and i thought this might be the problem. ive been surfig for a year and go quite often. should i look for a new board and if so what size?

im also looking for tips on cutting back and turning up waves to drop in again. i can turn to the side alright and get barreled sometimes if i crouch, but even when a wave is forming nicely infront of me, all i can do is ride along it. i want to learn to be able to ride back up a wave.

1) im not positive if this is normal, but it does sometimes happenes to me... i dont know what to do either, i just pull em down.

2) you might have two problems, the first is yes your board may be a bit too small... but before you go buy one, try catching the wave earlier. if you find yourself looking down a verticle wall with absolutly no or little qangle to it, your mostly likely to nose dive. or is your question as your paddling it sinks. if this is so, you probably need a new board or try putting your wieght back more so that the tip of your nose sticks out of the water at least one inch. if none of these works, buy a new board. i suggest something in the 6'6" to 7'. if all your ever in is 3-6 footers you might want to think about buying a fish, this will give you more float.

3)cutting back is different then going up the wave, just to let you know. it is nearly impossible to explain what to do. but i think the other guy described it well. but ill give it a shot. bend your knees, look to where you want to go (dont try anything too sharp at first), rotate you shoulders so theey become equal with where your head is pointing. at this point your shoulders and head should be faceing where your turning. then turn your hips so that your whole body is like what it would be going down the line striaght. just dont think about how to do it too much, let it come naturally; youll get it.