Surfing Waves

Hey Guys,
Im a beginner and i started going along the line and i catch most waves i paddle for. If im on the wave i quickly use speed and i dont really know how to perform a buttom turn. The video attached is me surfing a wave and it shows well, that i can really get down to the bottom of the face and that I lose speed. I also think that my weight distriubution is not very good either. Can anyone help me? Thanks alot!!!!
The link to the video:
https://vimeo.com/932371357?share=copy

Hi Vito, Great to start with a video of you surfing; gives a lot to advise you on!
A few of us old hands will probably come on and offer help!
Your wave catching is a good start, but now the assessment begins, your stance is called a poo stance and absolutely hinders any connection of balance. and delivery of power to make a bottom. turn ( it is a very common stance for people at your stage going backhand)
You are poorly balanced to effect any change of direct if you look you see that your turns are lean turns but answer is to stand up straighter and drive through the soles of your feet with pressure on your back foot.

The criticism seems harsh but early days , try little improvements, at the moment your overhanging bum is a big hinderance to down the line surfing and direction changing.
Watch the good riders in your wave zone, absolutely none use the poo stance, watch and copy!
We want you to become a capable surfer, really

Surfing isn't easy to learn. You have learned to stand and ride the wave somewhat. Good for you. Yeah your stance could use some improvement like rotate your hips and hold your hand so it's like your board is a tightrope and you are balancing side to side. I think also you either need to move forward or put more weight on your front foot.

Think about creating speed like bouncing high on a trampoline. It takes rhythm / timing. If you're off time or absorb with you knee when you should be pushing off instead, you will cut the bounce. The same goes for being in rhythm with the wave's energy.

The efforts you are currently making to gain speed, is actually cancelling the speed that is available.


For land training, I would recommend you using a Carver skate board. ( a normal skateboard with "loose" truck will not suffice )

But even before that, I would go back to the basics of surfing and learn what TRIM is. Learning to use the edge/rail and single fin on a larger board first and work with the wave, will help you when you transition down to a shorter board later on.

Wish I had the courage to post a video of myself surfing backside in my power poop stance. Good on ya, you'll improve a heck of a lot faster than those of us who were too intimidated to seek out the honest feedback we needed at that critical stage.

If you are a beginner then you are off to a good start, surfing takes time to learn and a lifetime to master.

1) Pump up and down to gain speed, if you stay at the bottom you will dump the speed you started with.
2) Like paddling, finding the sweet spot on your board is key. If you are too far forward you pearl, if you are too far back you stall because you are doing a wheelie. Similarly if you are tilting your body forward or back while on your board.

Best advice: keep at it! You are awesome!

OP does something that I had to worki a lot on - not rotating hips enough on pop-up. The back foot is too far off center, the front foot ends up on the other side of the board to compensate. Then you can’t move your feet because if you pick one up, the other is too far to the side and the board tips over.

Some tips to help:
1) stagger your hands slightly on the pop-up so your right hand (for regular foot) is a little lower on the board.
2) really think about your hips being sideways as you’re popping up.
3) dry land pop up practice, and "mountain climber" exercises where you start in a plank and bring your knee to opposite elbow.
4) be proud and celebrate how well you’re doing!