Surfing Waves

Hi all! I started surfing just about 3 months ago and I absolutely love it. I started on a 6ft, 42 liter foam board, which definitely stunted my learning as opposed to learning on a longer board (borrowing a friends board).

Over the months, I've been steadily improving and am now at the point where I can identify peaks and get into waves consistently on a 5'10", 32 liter board (I am 5'8" 165). However, I've been having a lot of trouble learning to turn down the line and ride the face of the wave. Some of it is definitely related to unstable pop ups, but lately I've been wondering if there are any techniques that I'm missing since I've been stuck in this stage for a while. I've just been trying to learn by watching other surfers.

Below are some crappy surf cam videos of times where I definitely had an opportunity to go down the line. Any help would be appreciated

https://streamable.com/pkgfk1
https://streamable.com/ph6md0
https://streamable.com/62pgtt

Your board is way too small…..waaaaay too small. Both if them actually. You need a board that will allow you to learn basics like pop ups and simple top and bottom turns; you are stunting your development using the boards you mentioned. Also, 3 months of surfing is still just the beginning so don’t be discouraged. But do get a bigger board, much bigger.

Geezer wrote:Your board is way too small…..waaaaay too small. Both if them actually. You need a board that will allow you to learn basics like pop ups and simple top and bottom turns; you are stunting your development using the boards you mentioned. Also, 3 months of surfing is still just the beginning so don’t be discouraged. But do get a bigger board, much bigger.

Thanks for the advice! I managed to push through the learning curve of paddling into waves on a shortboard, but it's starting the catch up to me now. Do you think a foam 8ft board would do the trick, or would you recommend something else?

I eventually want to transition back to a shortboard so it would be awesome to find a transitional board that doesn't break the bank

Surfing a shorter board effectively goes far beyond being able to paddle and catch a wave; but you’re starting to sense that now. A big 8’ costco foamie should be perfect. Work on basics; pop up, bottom turns front and backside, cutbacks both ways and learing about the ocean and wave positioning. Don’t worry/get preoccupied about transitioning; first things first.

However long it took to create those bad habits, will be the same amount of time it takes to break them. Luckily you've only been riding that short board for 3 months. Put those short boards away in the closet or storage for 2 years or ( a couple of full seasons ). Don't bring it out until you learn all the basics first on a 8 footer ( 2 feet over your head ), then after on a 7 footer ( a foot over your head ) and are able to cutbacks backside and pump for speed ( and stall ). You shouldn't be on a short board if you can't go rail to rail ( let alone not trim along the face ). Hopefully the damage isn't totally permanent.

Question: who / what told you to get a 5'10" to learn on ?

waikikikichan wrote:However long it took to create those bad habits, will be the same amount of time it takes to break them. Luckily you've only been riding that short board for 3 months. Put those short boards away in the closet or storage for 2 years or ( a couple of full seasons ). Don't bring it out until you learn all the basics first on a 8 footer ( 2 feet over your head ), then after on a 7 footer ( a foot over your head ) and are able to cutbacks backside and pump for speed ( and stall ). You shouldn't be on a short board if you can't go rail to rail ( let alone not trim along the face ). Hopefully the damage isn't totally permanent.

Question: who / what told you to get a 5'10" to learn on ?

I'm on the 5'10" because a friend sold me his used board for pennies. I'm a college student and was just looking at the cheapest option.

When it comes to bad habits that I need to break (and "permanent damage"), can you elaborate specifically on what that may be? You seem to think that my 3 months in the water (~4 sessions per week) have been completely wasteful because I've been on a shortboard. I've built paddle strength, learned the etiquette of surfing and how to navigate a lineup at competitive point breaks, can read peaks and position myself accordingly (still tons of room for improvement), and pop up on green waves.

My pop up is unstable and the logical solution is to step up to a bigger board, and I will. But, I came here to try and get feedback on my current surfing and what I can do to help me learn to bottom turn / go down the line. Not to be patronized about my board

Aidan I‘m sorry you feel patronised about your board the basic fact we see so often is the belief that a shorter board is going to be easier and more manouverable, it only becomes this when you have mastered skills on a longer board.
The older hands here post advice that saves many painful months of poor surfing experiences and hindered progress.
Feeling patronised is arguing for your limitations. Sorry hard love here

aidank1234 wrote: I came here to try and get feedback on my current surfing and what I can do to help me learn to bottom turn / go down the line. Not to be patronized about my board

aidank1234 wrote: I started on a 6ft, 42 liter foam board, which definitely stunted my learning as opposed to learning on a longer board (borrowing a friends board).

So then you patronized yourself and agree with me that you shouldn't have learned on a too small board.

Yes, we all have limiting factors on board size. A too small car, too small dorm room/apartment, etc. But say I want to learn to ride a motorcycle, and my friend will sell me his Turbo Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa for pennies. Do you think that will be good ( safe ) to learn on ?

Agreed a limiting factor is budget, but Wavstorm or Gerry Lopez 8 foot soft surfboard you can get used for $50-75 as they only costed $115 new.

aidank1234 wrote:Any help would be appreciated

I am trying to help you. It may not be the advice you expected or wanted. I never said your time has been "wasted", but in that time, bad habits could have formed that will take a long time to undue.

To some one learning to surf making mistakes is given. Here we see the same mistakes made over and over again but not by the same person. Some posters like Waikikichan have seen even more as he teaches surfing. We are here to help you but the internet is probably not the best format because you can't catch tone of voice or facial expressions but we mean no harm. Just want to help you learn. You could however try in person surf lessons If not just try to explain your issues and we will try to help The videos are useful as well. It shows what the problem is better than any description. It seems like of the first one you are angled in the wrong direction on the takeoff. The second one is just a lousy wave and the third one it took you way too long to stand and get balanced. A longer board will make it easier to popup and get balanced as well as easier to catch waves. If you make mistakes at this point of learning, those mistakes will persist once you recognize them and set about to try to change. By repeating the same mistake over and over again you are training yourself to surf poorly. It's better to fix them right away then you don't have to unlearn stuff.