Surfing Waves

Hey y'all, ultra-beginner here with only one session under my belt so far. That inaugural run didn't go super smoothly -- was too pumped to be in the water, didn't spend enough time practicing basic mechanics, and flailed around a bunch. Still had a ton of fun, though!

I've been practicing my dry pop-ups in anticipation of my next sesh, and I'd love to hear any feedback or advice you might have. Don't really have any surf buds or seasoned eyes around yet, so any tips on what's looking good/what needs improvement would be amazing.

Looks like I could only embed the horizontal vid, apologies for the out-links on vid 2 and 3. Please, thank you, and looking forward to putting your tips into practice on my next go!

Video 1:

Video 2:
Video 3:

Learning to surf is all about flailing around. Learning to surf is not just mechanics of riding a board, you have to learn about the ocean and the waves. You have to learn how to paddle, how to catch a wave, where to be to catch the right waves and which waves are the right waves and how do you get out to the right place to be. Lots of stuff that you can't practice at home. I won't comment about your popup other than it looks like it should work but if you are having problems popping up you should get a video of yourself having those problems then we could say something about it.

Before I comment on your pop up.........

1) What size is the board you're learning on ?

2) Are you making the bottom turn and going up the face after your pop up ?

3) Who taught you this pop up ? Youtube ?

Keep the stoke. Ive seen way worse work.

How far are you from the ocean? How many times a month do you think you can get out and surf?

oldmansurfer, thanks for the words. Yes, still much observation and immersion ahead. One of the most exciting things about surfing to me is the constant movement and newness of every wave. After 20+ of years of skateboarding, I thought some of my board feel and control would carry over, but it's just a completely different world -- never static, always shifting. I will try to have my wife get a vid of the next few sessions so you can critique a real-world pop-up.

waikikikichan, thanks for the questions. 1) I'm on an 8' Torq 60 ltr. Since I'm on a longboard, maybe I'm making things tough on myself by trying to do the standard pop-up? Tried more of a chicken wing technique my first session, but it felt a little slow... but I'm sure it'd come faster with practice. 2) Have yet to make a turn -- only stood up a few times on my first session and started briefly down the line. 3) Yes, from a laundry list of YT vids and some slowmo clips of folks popping up. Haven't had an actual lesson yet. Hope that helps!

Geezer, right on -- definitely lots of passion and stoke on my end. I'm currently living on the Central Coast of California, just 15 mins from a nice beach break, and will be here roughly through the end of the year. Aiming for 2-3 sessions per week!

The great thing about surfing compared to skateboarding is much softer falls Don't worry it's supposed to be difficult. Get some lessons so you can have quick individual instruction and feedback. It's common for those skilled in riding other boards to think surfing should be easy to learn with the idea they would be doing airs in a short period of time. But like I said there is so much that you need to know and be able to do besides riding a board.. Don't let that discourage you, see it as a goal, pay attention to the waves as that is the way to learn to surf. Also board size seems a little short for a beginner. It's easier to popup on a bigger board as they are more stable. Post your surfing videos here and hopefully we can make useful comments

One important tip: Keep your left hand on/outside your left rail, keep your right hand on/outside your right rail.

kook_mentality wrote:waikikikichan, thanks for the questions. 1) I'm on an 8' Torq 60 ltr. Since I'm on a longboard, maybe I'm making things tough on myself by trying to do the standard pop-up? Tried more of a chicken wing technique my first session, but it felt a little slow... but I'm sure it'd come faster with practice. 2) Have yet to make a turn -- only stood up a few times on my first session and started briefly down the line. 3) Yes, from a laundry list of YT vids and some slowmo clips of folks popping up. Haven't had an actual lesson yet. Hope that helps!

First, great great pop up. One of the best I've seen posted by a newbie. But ....... ( more on that later )

1) Yeah usually you see people "cheat" by pushing off the ground with their toes in their pop up videos. And long(er)boards allow you to do that. But if you can pop up without using your toes, then great. But realize you are using energy/core muscles ( that could be directed to your paddling power ) to keep the legs up in the air. Let them rest if you can until you need them up.

"but I'm sure it'd come faster with practice" ??? if anything you might be too fast. You got the speed/energy, now focus on being SMOOOOOOTH. Land on your feet so lightly that it doesn't tear the rice paper.

2) ( Here's the BUT part ) The first thing I noticed is you look back or to the side a lot. Where you look is where you go. This gaze down the line will come in handy later in your surf journey, but for now tone it down a tad. You say you haven't turned yet, but your pop up video shows a technique to angle in right off the take off.

You also said you "started briefly down the line", that means you went from going to the beach to running a bit parallel to it. So between the pop up and down the line, there was a bottom turn ( or maybe a veer )

3) You are doing great from only learning from videos. Please please don't go down the "Chicken Wing route".
If anything:
a) point your front toes to 10-11 o'clock versus currently which is more 9-10 o'clock.
b) you sway your hips front and back to feel the balance, which looks good and not stiff. Try to also incorporate some Right Left Heel Toe rail rail motion.

Thanks Concrete and oldman for the tips and encouragement! Stoked to get back out there, hopefully next week sometime.

waikikikichan, big thanks for the positive (and constructive) feedback. Really clear, actionable advice that I'm excited to try out next sesh. And thanks for noting that the hip sway post-pop was meant to convey balancing, rather than a goofy dance move...

I'll work in the heel-toe motion from now on in my dry pops -- I think that will feel pretty intuitive thanks to riding loose trucks on my skateboard for decades.

Ain’t no kook mentality about your taking the good advice given and looking to make it work.
So many learners argue and have excuses for their limitations, love your stoke

jaffa1949 wrote:Ain’t no kook mentality about your taking the good advice given and looking to make it work.
So many learners argue and have excuses for their limitations, love your stoke

Thanks Jaffa! Loving the sense of community here and all the kind, helpful words so far. Looking forward to getting to know y'all and sharing more of my beginner's journey.