Surfing Waves

I’ve spent the last 18 months learning on a 9 foot wave storm. I’m 6’0 and average about 200. I catch and get up successfully on 30-50% of waves depending on the session. Thought it might make sense to transition to a hard top as my foam or was getting worn down. I went and picked up a used Almond surf Thump and took it down to Blackies.

Im not quite sure I was mentally prepared for the transition I was taking on. First two sessions have seemed as though I’m starting from scratch. Tougher to keep balance on board padding between and into waves. I think there’s an element of fear of the board in there, but felt like that was dissipating by the second time. Suffice to say I wasn’t successful in either session. Curious if anyone can give advice as to what to expect and how to come up the curve quicker.

Switching between a sponge board and a hard board of exactly the same size (which you didn't mention), it is expected to be more difficult to paddle and catch wave due to loss of flotation. Perhaps the older board is water logged in addition? I think all surfers wish to go up the curve quicker and many are looking for the right board to do that. There are definitely boards that are better or worse for that but my opinion is learning to use the board you have is the most useful way to do that. The difference might be that you are paddling with the nose too far out of the water . The nose should be about 1 inch out of the water while you are paddling. Perhaps you should mention the size of the new board so that those other members who know more about what is good for a person in your situation might be able to help you.

New board is 9’8”

So it’s a longer board which should paddle better because it will have more glide which means it will keep its speed up longer between paddles. There are lots pluses and minuses for every design. This new board due to being narrower is less stable side to side. In addition you need to be sure it’s waxed well enough that it’s not slippery. Very likely if you find the right place to lay on the board to paddle you will find it superior in the long run although it may require paddling from a spot more outside to get it moving before the wave gets to you. There may be some psychological stuff going on as well. Surfing is not supposed to be easy. It’s one of the most difficult sports to learn. It takes time and effort and dedication so if it seems difficult that is exactly how it’s supposed to be. If no one else responds to you (give it a few days) then another option would be to get some in person instruction

The Negative aspect of riding a sponge / soft board for Intermediate surfer is the FLEX.

The Positive aspect of riding a sponge / soft board for the Beginner surfer is the FLEX.

That Flex that makes it less responsive, allows the soft board to be more forgiving.

On the paddle, it absorbs some of the herk and jerk.
When riding, it absorbs the imperfections of being in the wrong part of the wave.
On a hard board, if you standing on the wrong spot, it will buck you off abruptly. On a soft board, there’s a bit of delay.

Once you get used to the paddle and take off on a harder board, I think the major problem will be the Single fin. If the 9’ Wavestorm was a “Thruster” ( three similar sized fins ) set-up, going to a single will be a new learning curve. It won’t slide out as much ( maybe good or bad in your case ). But singles reward you if done right, punish you if you try to force it.

Interesting. I’m not sure how much it effects the incremental flex, but I imagine the fact this board is a triple stringer doesn’t help then.

oldmansurfer wrote:So it’s a longer board which should paddle better because it will have more glide which means it will keep its speed up longer between paddles. There are lots pluses and minuses for every design. This new board due to being narrower is less stable side to side. In addition you need to be sure it’s waxed well enough that it’s not slippery. Very likely if you find the right place to lay on the board to paddle you will find it superior in the long run although it may require paddling from a spot more outside to get it moving before the wave gets to you. There may be some psychological stuff going on as well. Surfing is not supposed to be easy. It’s one of the most difficult sports to learn. It takes time and effort and dedication so if it seems difficult that is exactly how it’s supposed to be. If no one else responds to you (give it a few days) then another option would be to get some in person instruction

I think you have a point here regarding paddling sooner. With the foam board I could get up to speed in 2ish strokes. I imagine with this board it will take more strokes to get up to planing speed, and allow that increased glide to assist

Yes the fiberglass boards are heavier which means more effort is required to get them moving. A surfer I met always carries a wavestorm in his car because 1) it's easily replaceable, 2) people aren't likely to steal it, 3) it works well enough for him to use in a lot of different conditions, and 4) it's the only board that works for him at a break that he calls @*^&## $%@^* because whenever he surfs that break with another board he can't catch waves and he screams @*^&## $%@^*. But the heavier board is easier to go through waves because just like it taking more force to make it go forward it also takes more force to push it back. While the solid board might be scary for a while, once you get used to it it will ultimately perform better once you learn to use it.

Went out today at the same spot. Got 4/12 waves I paddled for. Easy pop-up and trim down the line. Fear of board seems to be gone. Still occasionally squirrelly paddling, but altogether much improved.