Surfing Waves

I saw somebody do an interesting maneuver the other day. He was paddling for a wave but was too late. As the wave was beginning to break on top of him, he just did a turtle roll (still facing the beach).

Is this a "legit" move? It actually seemed to work.

since it worked yes, done it myself when caught by a bigger set or as happened to that guy!
Some people do reverse airs, this is a reverse water!

I imagine there are better ways to deal with that situation but if it works more power to you. I tend to never get into that situation

When it happened to me I quickly slid back and sat over the fins. Going over the falls I felt like a cowboy. Yee Haw!

XiloRider wrote:Is this a "legit" move? It actually seemed to work.

So did he flip back over after the wave past over him and simply paddled away ?

Was this a standard move he does ? I would not think so, since someone who has this incredible technique first doesn't put himself in situations to ever need to use said technique.

Sure he didn't just bail to the side, but without throwing the board ?

waikikikichan wrote:

XiloRider wrote:Is this a "legit" move? It actually seemed to work.

So did he flip back over after the wave past over him and simply paddled away ?

Was this a standard move he does ? I would not think so, since someone who has this incredible technique first doesn't put himself in situations to ever need to use said technique.

Sure he didn't just bail to the side, but without throwing the board ?

He definitely meant to do it. He rolled, the wave passed over him, and he rolled back up. He didn't paddle immediately afterward. Just floated for a bit. I was walking in from the beach, getting ready to surf, so I didn't pay much attention after that. He seemed like he might be a beginner just doing something instinctual. Just seemed interesting.

If the wave was too hollow I think he risked breaking his board in half. If the wave was a chubby one, that probably works I guess, better than bailing the board and having it go with the wave and then having the leash pull you too.

But yeah, best not to be caught in that situation, though it happens in the best families

Careless bail = fail!

Word Jaffa, I really hate when people ditch their boards. I don't remember doing that even when I was a real beginner. Yet I see people doing it in weak days, like 2ft hawaian. With rare exceptions where there's just no way you could duck dive the wave (definitely not on a 2ft day), I think if you're afraid to duck dive a wave you shouldn't be out in the first place, at least not in that spot.

Also, I'm actually more nervous about ditching my board then trying to duck dive the set. Chances of having a snapped leash and having to swim in are higher and you usually can float back to the surface faster if the wave didn't rip the board out of your hands. But that also makes me so used to trying to duck dive that when it's time to actually ditch I might make the wrong call

How does one get into this situation where you are in the impact zone and paddling in in surf big enough to force you to do some special maneuver? I’m pretty sure I would be paddling back out to catch a wave in through that area. But maybe this has to do with surfing in crowds?

oldmansurfer wrote:How does one get into this situation where you are in the impact zone and paddling in in surf big enough to force you to do some special maneuver?

Such a situation may happen when surfing powerful beach break waves after a fall or otherwise trying to get to the beach. The surfer starts to paddle to shore, but a large close out comes before they make it, and they are still caught inside yet padding in. There's nothing to do but try to let the white water pass or catch it, but catching white water that big and fast means getting tossed a lot of the time.

I don't think anyone ends up in this situation on purpose though, so perhaps the practiced nature of this maneuver says there is something else going on. This happens at Ocean Beach in San Francisco sometimes (to me at least, maybe not to better surfers) but I still usually try to catch the white water.

Think you people are spoiled with reef breaks.
I only have beach breaks and often you get stuck during a set in the impact zone after falling. I always try no to let the board go but I had some nasty experiences while trying to hold the board by the rail saver.
I can't duck dive on a 8'' foamie, would do turtle roll but sometimes I have no time to grab the board in time.
Is there any better way?

You need to grab the rail saver or leash far enough away from the board to avoid getting your hand or fingers pinched. I surf shore break and have a variety of methods to get out through the surf. All of them count on vigilant constant awareness of what the ocean is doing not only right in front of you but outside as well

One of the last times I was hold the rail saver, the board was pulled out of my hand so hard that I ended with three black nails.
But I still do it, prefer that then leaving the board "alone" even if I don't spot anyone in front.

DON’T ever grab your rail saver or your leash near the board, Nandox7 was very lucky guys have had the entire flesh of their hand stripped off by the webbing of the rail saver, the entire force on the wave is transferred to that point ( rail saver and then to the stretchy part of the leash.

Learn to grab the rails properly in a turtle roll, And timing is all important!

Well that is the thing if I have the time to grab the board and roll I'll do it, I'm not perfect at it but works.
Problem is when there is no time, it happens that I barely have time to pull it by the leash and grab the saver.

But I see what you mean and I'll avoid it.

I’d be worried about getting a fin cut, probably ok in a small wave but would probably be more problem on a bigger wave