Surfing Waves

Hi all, hope everyone is well!

I’ve been in Portugal for a month now, surfing basically around everyday on a 7’8 soft top board that’s about 75L. It’s super stable and easy to paddle with, works well on waves up to 4-5ft.. when waves are good I’ve been able to pop up consistently and go down the line around 75% of the time?

But I’m learning at a beach break where the waves are getting pretty big and steep like 6-7ft+..

For reference I’m 5’4 and about 52 kg (115lb?)

I feel like I don’t really have control over the foam board when paddling out as the waves are massive, and the angled takeoff is more difficult as the waves are so steep. Even when I do succeed it feels like I don’t have the ability to maneuver the board (can’t engage the rails). The board feels clunky to handle

So just wondering if anyone has any insight.. either some technique tips or board advice. I almost feel like I’m too light for the soft top and it’s like I’m on a trampoline because of how buoyant it is, haha! But I’ve been able to get it at times.. so maybe I just need to practice more with the steep takeoff. Open to any insight, thanks!

Too steep and too big for a soft top ? Watch how Jaime O'brien sets the inside rail by:
1) Setting up his both his feet to the Left of the stringer
2) Grabbing the rail with his back hand and lifting up
3) Holding the waves face with his front hand
4) Leans the top half of his body into the wave
5) Sits his butt into the wave

Things are a bit different going front side ( can't sit your butt and your pressure the ball of your feet not the heels ) but theory is the same.
( and remember to NOT hold that position, you need to adjust once you've set your rail and on Trim )

( by the way, I'm 5'3" and 125 lbs. )

But I’m learning at a beach break where the waves are getting pretty big and steep like 6-7ft+..

Learn about swell conditions and choose your day / tide wisely. I think Portugal is probably like Northern California in that swell energy really increases in the fall and through the winter. If you can find more sheltered spots, they may be worth the drive. Exposed beach breaks that face directly into swell energy can have overwhelming swell. As a reference, yesterday the NW swell was 10ft @ 15 seconds at my favorite break. Needless to say, I did not surf. You may not be able to surf every day or at every tide, and you may have to monitor the surf forecast to plan your sessions.

Eventually you will be able to surf on more days and different swell conditions as your experience and comfort level increase.

The following chart is good at showing the relationship between wave period and size of wave face, which is important to know as long period (winter) surf can be a completely different animal than summer surf.

http://stormsurf.com/page2/papers/category_short.html

I think your problem is most likely that your paddling isn't that strong. You can certainly ride a foamy in some fairly solid conditions, and you should be able to paddle in very early before it gets steep. Wave selection is important. If you go for ones that are already too steep then the board will be a handful taking off. Try sitting a bit further out and going for waves earlier than you normally would. With the immense bouyancy of foam boards plus your light weight, you'd be amazed at the flat little ripples it's possible to catch. Remember that on a big board, it takes time to overcome the inertia and get them moving. You need several paddle strokes (like 10) to get them up to full speed, so you need to start paddling for the wave early and time it right so that you're at full speed just when you want to catch it. If you just go for the wave with one or two strokes, you're far less likely to catch it (unless it's steep already).

I was thinking the same as what Lebowski said. Practice your paddling and take off sooner before the wave gets too steep. Make sure your feet are at the right spot on the board (back foot more more than 30cm from the tail extremity).

You can also use the tip of arching your back to paddle, than bringing your chin to the board on your last stroke to shift the weight of your body forward, which will help you drop the wave sooner.

Enjoy!

You could also try to change the soft top for a 8' or 8'6 and see how it goes, maybe ideally look for a mushy point break instead of a fast beach break.

Thanks everyone for the advice!! Will definitely keep in mind and work on the paddling. For the early start in paddling, is this just for the steeper waves or for all waves in general?

Oh and the swell chart was super helpful

surfexpedition wrote:You could also try to change the soft top for a 8' or 8'6 and see how it goes, maybe ideally look for a mushy point break instead of a fast beach break.

Do you mean an 8’ or 8’6 softtop or hardtop?

pamelakaylin wrote:Thanks everyone for the advice!! Will definitely keep in mind and work on the paddling. For the early start in paddling, is this just for the steeper waves or for all waves in general?

There's no advantage to catching a wave late. I always aim to catch them as early as possible. The 'steeper waves' aren't steeper if you catch them earlier.

Just get a minimal! There are many second hand ones always available in Portugal, e.g. in FB marketplace. You're hindering your progress on a foamie, it's too large for you, it's slow and it's hard to maneuver and turn. Also, it's so easy to balance on it and paddle it that you're not getting to practice how to use your body when paddling, or how your position on the board affects the board when standing up. Btw I'm also a female surfer in Portugal! I'll send you a pm in case we live nearby

As a beginner, on big days I stayed inside and rode the whitewash, practiced just popping up. Don't go for the big waves until you are ready...