Taking a turn

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Taking a turn

Postby coffeaddict » Sat Dec 07, 2019 6:42 pm

Hey all, thanks for the advice from my previous post.

I am a beginner, I surf for about 4 months now, I know how to properly pop up and catch small waves.
My problems is, when I go for slightly bigger waves (for me 3-5ft) I am having a hard time to take a turn when catching the wave, I go up and it slams me down into oblivion.
I do try to slightly adjust the board to the side and look to the side, but when the wave picks me up it kinda brakes WITH me, and if i do manage to pop up the drop is too vicious and I lose balance.

What am I doing wrong? I am in a good position like other surfers but the wave just drops me down every time before I manage to take a turn.

(if relevant: surfing a 6'6 softboard, height is 5'9)

Thanks in advance!!@
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Re: Taking a turn

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Dec 18, 2019 6:41 pm

Since no one has posted anything. I'm going to say that it could be that you aren't paddling enough. To catch a wave you have to match the speed of the wave or be in exactly the right place at the right time. So what happens is the wave overcomes you and pushes the tail up dumping you forward. My suggestion as with everything else related to wave size is to try not to make too big of a jump in size so find a smaller part of the waves and take off there or just keep at it. When I learned to surf I learned on a shortboard on waist to shoulder high waves. About 9 times I would fall down at the bottom of the wave then the tenth time I made it and rode the wave. After 2 weeks it was the other way around I made the drop on 9 out of 10 waves. Maybe you can figure it out. I did. Taking the drop is a very complex thing and in your mind you want to pull back stay back go to the back of the board but that is the wrong thing. You need to lean forward and be forward on the board so it doesn't stall. Then when you get to the bottom you have to change by bringing the board under your weight. It's easier to go in smaller increments of size.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Taking a turn

Postby IanCaio » Wed Dec 18, 2019 10:33 pm

It sounds like you're turning at the wrong time/place. When carving the turn happens before the wave breaks, and when snapping the turn happens just as the wave is about to break. If you make the turn when it's already breaking it will probably slam you down like you described. Are the waves you're surfing mostly closeouts or fast closing waves? Are they hollow?

Also, as OMS said, the earlier you manage to enter the wave the easier the drop in will be. When waves are hollow and the board is small (meaning less paddle power) you usually enter the wave in a critical point, the pop up is much harder and faster. If you manage to glide into the wave earlier on you have a little more time to get yourself up and in place.
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Re: Taking a turn

Postby waikikikichan » Thu Dec 19, 2019 12:59 am

Can you do a strong Bottom Turn ? Not sure, what you mean by "I go up and it slams me down into oblivion". But if you're getting "stuck at the top" then you don't:
1) Haven't enough speed coming off the bottom turn
2) You going too hard too early ( placement and timing ) You're trying to put a square peg in a round hole.
3) You're not looking ahead. Your literally stuck in the moment.

But I think the answer is you haven't learned to LISTEN to the wave yet. There's a time to do a turn and a time not to.
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Re: Taking a turn

Postby waikikikichan » Thu Dec 19, 2019 8:55 pm

Woah, I reread your opening post. Forget what I previously said, since I think you need help turning onto the face to go across the wave, NOT doing a top turn, cutback, etc.
5’9” beginner, riding a 6’6” softboard with only 4 months experience. What board were you riding previous to the 6’6” ?
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Re: Taking a turn

Postby Eli Ritchie » Sun Dec 22, 2019 4:55 pm

Hey I run a YouTube channel and would be happy to put up some surf tutorials to help. This is my channel. https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCirmi1TTgY4U-53VHFdLBiw
Just tell me whatever you need in the comments.
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