Advice and Tips for Short boarding?

[fevahdawg]

As for my first ever post on this forum, which I have already viewed at a lot, i’d like to ask for some advice that has seriously bugging me for a while: How can I seriously progress with my short-boarding?

For my experience, I got addicted to surfing starting at 15yo in July of 2018. Within less than a month after that, I was paddling into my own waves. Currently I can effectively go down the line and perform a bottom turn front side and backside, as well as very shallow top turns. This was with a 7’0 fun board.

Now, I moved onto a 6’2 Puddle Jumper RP by Lost. It has plenty of volume (42.75L) while still being agile on bigger and smaller days. The only other experience I had on a shortboard was my friends 5’6 fish that he allowed me to use, which were on very small days, riding straight in the whitewater.

Anyway, the last surf session I had was a video coaching lesson. It also happened to be my first ever time paddling out on a shortboard in 3-4ft steep offshore waves, with a good amount of closeouts and short rides. There were a hefty amount of wipeouts but was able to take the drop and go down the line on a few of these waves, including a few baby turns on the whitewater (I was behind the section a lot, as there where a lot of close outs, and also this being the first time).

I was told that I did really good for it being one of the first times I was ever on a shortboard, including the tricky conditions that where going on. There were a few mistakes that where pointed out to me. I had a narrow stance, which made it awkward to perform turns, and weighted on my back foot a lot, which made me wipeout a lot when dropping in. I was also hesitating, not paddling enough, as well as tired and a little afraid.

Since there was video footage taken, I would like some feedback to see what I can further improve on, as that was 3 weeks ago. However, I have not stopped after that, as I often use a surf skate down my neighborhood road to Improve on my technique. Anyway, i’m extremely curious to see all of my wrongdoings and what I can do to improve. (Also, if I didn't do something right while posting this, let me know).

Here is the link to my channel where I uploaded the videos of me during the coaching. Some of them are me making the drop, and some are me wiping out, as i'm very curious to see what I should have done to not wipe out.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJLQ7qeGEU6BhfeGPzpl3Aw?

Thanks to everyone reading this!

[oldmansurfer]

Difficult for me to say much about that. Good to get videos but one thing might be you have too much weight on your rear foot which stalls your board. Also wave choice not so good and you need to work on a better bottom turn.

[fevahdawg]

Thanks for the reply. And since that my bottom turn does suck, how should it be improved?

[fevahdawg]

Another thing; how was my wave selection bad? Im aware they were all closeouts, was it just my positioning or something else?