HELP nosediving down face after take-off

[Chuck511]

Howdy,
So been surfing for about 2 years. Recently been riding a 7’ McFish since the summer. With winter swells rolling in the waves have gotten faster and steeper.

Today, went out in some nice chest high surf, hollow sets occasionally. First wave was great; paddled, popped and had nice ride. The rest of the afternoon I was eating absolute poop.

Here it goes: I would catch the wave, pop and be coming down the face + down the line. Next thing I know a couple seconds after popping and looking down the line, I am flying forward while my board just caught the nose.

We’ve all seen it happen before. Happens so damn fast. Since I nail the take off I figure it will be a good ride then brakes are slammed and I can’t figure it out.

Happened a lot today resulting in some heavy slams! Please help surf fam!

[surferbee]

Been there! Fat, wide nose + steep, hollow wave = pearling

If you add to that a pretty flat rocker and/or a wide tail, there's a good chance that your board just isn't fitting the shape of the wave very well. There are ways to compensate to make it work - angling your drops, riding more off the tail, shifting your weight further back - but if you try to ride that board in those conditions the same way that you approach smaller, mushier surf then you'll run into problems. One or more of the following things may be happening:

1. You're simply weighting the nose too much, which is usually why people pearl.
2. The back of your board is getting sucked up into the wave causing you to pitch forward.
3. The fat nose, flat rocker, and/or straight rail line is getting hung up in the curvier pocket of the wave (think square peg in round hole).

Don't get me wrong. I don't know the specific board model you have, and I'm not saying you can't ride that board in those conditions. With enough skill you can ride almost anything in any conditions. I'm just saying you'll have to adapt your approach and riding style to make it work. And yeah, a big fish is generally not the board of choice for steep, hollow waves.

[oldmansurfer]

Is this not the same board you have been using? How often do you surf? When is the last time you surfed? I am not sure why but most likely you can paddle at a slight angle so the board is facing down the line already when you pop up and then once you stand show the inside rail into the wave so the board is dropping on rail instead of flat.

[waikikikichan]

Next thing I know a couple seconds after popping and looking down the line, I am flying forward while my board just caught the nose.

Which ( Exact ) direction is your body getting flown off to after the nose pearls ?
1) a bit towards the beach ?
2) a bit into the wave's face ?
3) fully straight over the front of the nose ?

[KitesurferAU]

I found myself pearling when I don't paddle enough for a wave to get it. Not enough speed leads to hang out on the lip which leads to more steeper drop and you can end up with nose pearl.