Surfing Waves

Not sure if this will make sense, or if I am about to reveal myself as an utter newb, or if I read the situation wrong - was at Scarborough North on Saturday with my 13yo and her foamie. Had a chat with couple of chaps in the shop about conditions, and they advised against the middle of the beach (which had a handful of SUPs on). Loads of folks in the water at the south of the bay so we headed over. The waves were maybe 3 to 5 foot, occasionaly bigger but seemed to roll in then build/dump really fast. Almost like vertical walls of water just before they broke, with almost no chance of catching them before you got dumped - we have plenty of experience in Devon and Wales but not really seen waves quite like this before, first time "proper" surifng in Scarborough

We moved back along the beach to where a surf school was heading in the water (figured the instructors would know the best places to be) but it was similar, everyone was getting dumped. So we swapped to bodyboards - almost fun still got smashed about

Is that what Scarborough is usually like? Was it just that day? If I see that again is there a way of working with the conditions or is just not a sensible place to go with a foamie?

I am not sure if Scarborough is usually like that but most likely it is one of many ways that it breaks depending on size of waves and direction of swell. Waves build and dump suddenly because of the water suddenly becoming shallower. If it is a reef rock break then it will be like this always but if it is sand then the sand will move around and make different conditions. Those kind of conditions aren't for learning to surf although if you can learn there that would be a huge amount of progress.

The tide could also be a factor.

I surf a beach where the waves break over sandbars. At low tide the waves break more steeply and powerfully outside; then after expending most of the energy there, they roll gently into shore. The inside at low tide is a great place for beginners to belly ride and get to their feet.

At high tide the waves have a crumbly break outside and bring a lot energy into shore. The inside can have big waves that are dangerous for beginners while the outside can offer a forgiving takeoff for surfers learning to ride green waves.

Study the break in advance and choose the right conditions for your daughter.

Some waves are just not meant to be ridden.

And some people are just not meant to be surf instructors, if they take their students out in those types of waves.

Surf schools here just about never cancel a day of lessons it seems......they will take their students out regardless of conditions.....whether swell so small that the only action is the instructor helpers hitting on the female students to so big that at least one board gets snapped and several students just quit after getting slammed. There are days when I pull up to my spot, have a look and go for coffee instead......cant do much if the waves are just not rideable for whatever reason.

waikikikichan wrote:Some waves are just not meant to be ridden.

And some people are just not meant to be surf instructors, if they take their students out in those types of waves.

Reminds me of this amazing video

Waves that break top-to-bottom are not good for beginners. These are called "dumping" or "plunging" waves. The other surfable type of wave is known as "spilling", and these are good for beginner and intermediate surfers. Look for the lip of the waves, and if they fire out in front of the wave and land at the bottom, you know the waves are too powerful and dumping. If the white water instead gently "spills" down the wave, the waves will be nice and forgiving!

If all the waves are dumping; either
1)wait for the mid-tide (see post above discussing how both low and high tides can cause dumping waves) or
2)just catch white-water waves ie sit inside where they are dumping and just ride the white-water practicing your popup so you don't just get endlessly trashed by being in the dump zone!
3)find a part of the beach where the waves are small so at least you don't get dumped very hard!
4)If you just really want to ride those dumpers: position yourself to catch the waves just where they are building (a few metres further out than where they break), then stand up when you are about to rush down the wave, leaning back enough to take the drop without nose-diving!

GlassyLinesMP wrote:Waves that break top-to-bottom are not good for beginners. These are called "dumping" or "plunging" waves.

OP's post seems more evocative of a closeout, IE, lack of shoulder.

Op probably can't read waves and just went where others were instead of looking for a ridable wave

pmcaero wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:Some waves are just not meant to be ridden.

And some people are just not meant to be surf instructors, if they take their students out in those types of waves.

Reminds me of this amazing video


Ha ha, was gonna post this one. I feel so bad for the students- the way they look out there, it seems like the instructors literally taught them nothing before having them all paddle out. No one is even turtle rolling, actually no one is doing much of anything besides getting hammered. I hope the Groupon was really cheap...

Just don't surf these dumping waves. You can break your neck on the bottom. Seriously.