Surfing Waves

Well pretty much as it says above. I know it's over the fins but is that say in front of the front fins, over the rear fin, smack center of all 3.

This is on a thruster set up on a short board.

Try it and see what works for you. Exactly where depends on the board and the surfer and the waves too. I know some surfers who like to ride mostly bigger waves ride with their foot always in front of the fins however for hard turns on smaller waves you want your feet more back. If you want to go faster more forward. It's not like because the board is short you feet become glued down to one position.

I am still moving my feet but don't know if I'm moving them too far/not far enough.

When I'm attempting turns I put it right back against the ridge of my tail pad so the rear of my foot would be about level with the back of the back fin and when I'm not I shift it forward to Where the center ridge is so about 2 or 3 inches forward so would be near the front of the rear fin. Sometimes it feels like the front is sticking up a bit starving me of all the speed that I've tried to gain.

Millsy82 wrote: I put it right back against the ridge of my tail pad so the rear of my foot would be about level with the back of the back fin and when I'm not I shift it forward to Where the center ridge is so about 2 or 3 inches forward so would be near the front of the rear fin.

When you’re all up against the kick tail of the pad, you can go by feel. But how do you know you’re 2-3” forward ?

waikikikichan wrote:

Millsy82 wrote: I put it right back against the ridge of my tail pad so the rear of my foot would be about level with the back of the back fin and when I'm not I shift it forward to Where the center ridge is so about 2 or 3 inches forward so would be near the front of the rear fin.

When you’re all up against the kick tail of the pad, you can go by feel. But how do you know you’re 2-3” forward ?

There is a lump built in to the tail pad which starts about 2" in front of the back ridge on my tail pad.

Millsy82 wrote:(When I'm attempting turns) Sometimes it feels like the front is sticking up a bit starving me of all the speed that I've tried to gain.

In a turn, you do slow down. That's why you need to move up again, shift your weight forward, take a step, etc. after exiting the turn. Some times people hold to the turn too long or put too much pressure on the rail and catch an edge. It's that smooth roll/transition from inside rail to flat bottom to outside rail and back that makes a well executed cutback/turn looks so nice.

Question: are you talking about small turns / directional change of the board as in pumping or turns out on the shoulder as in cutbacks ?

Millsy82 wrote:I am still moving my feet but don't know if I'm moving them too far/not far enough.

Maybe you'll just need to build up a bit more experience to know that.

I surf different boards all the time, and even though I don't know exactly where my feet are, I do know instantly when they are in the wrong position. I even know if they are too much back or in front, and which foot it is by the feedback feel of the board. So if possible I try to chance foot positioning then or try to get them right on the next wave.

Tip: Sometimes if the front foot is too far back you can't lift it to reposition because then the front of the (short)board will follow it upwards, like it is attached to ur foot. In that case u must shuffle the back foot forward to 'free' the front foot to make a step.

waikikikichan wrote:

Millsy82 wrote:Question: are you talking about small turns / directional change of the board as in pumping or turns out on the shoulder as in cutbacks ?

I've mainly noticed it when attempting cutbacks but I have noticed it when pumping etc.

Funny thing is I have had to remove my pad as I kept catching my big toe on it and I pulled my foot forward a bit more than usual (which was Alot easier because I didn't have all that grip) the speed I got on the wave was a lot better and I even managed a nice cutback my second attempt at a cutback didn't go quite as well I think that was more to do with my timing than anything else though.