Surfing Waves

As Ive progressed past the point past "worrying about how to catch waves", I've thought about trying to paddle less and be more efficient with my positioning. I almost feel as though I can be further inside on my wavestorm and paddle less, instead of being further out and paddling more.
I have tried this, and Im still catching the waves just fine.
I would also like to mention that when Id be further outside, I wouldn't really be able to pop up any sooner, just paddling more until the wave is strong/steep enough to allow me to ride it.

Anyone else experience this? (I know its usually that beginners cannot/ do not paddle enough and miss the wave - I feel as though I paddle from further out IE- paddling extra)

Mahalo!

Try your theories out!
Good wave catching is about positioning, paddling and timing, the pop up is dependent on all that when you have caught the wave, then it is the wave and your skill that dictates exactly what you do on a specific wave?

You still need to become a strong and efficient paddler!
If you go beyond the floaty easy catch wavestorm, you will need better paddling.
If you are not a strong paddler, you can find yourself a deer in the headlights obstacle in the line up!
PADDLE MORE! Get paddle fit, it will help the rest of your surfing?

Yes, later starts require less paddling. But they require better timing (less margin for error) and usually quicker pop up (less margin for error). However, as you improve you will learn to get better with positioning and timing and paddling - requiring less effort. Watch some good shortboarders - the pros generally take 4-6 paddles, maybe a few more on big waves.

So definitely go further in if its working for you. Just keep an eye out for set waves...

Blackvans1234 wrote:I know its usually that beginners cannot/ do not paddle enough and miss the wave

I see the opposite where beginners are too enthusiast and paddle their guts out ( teeth clench, arms like windmill ), before the wave even gets close. Then they lose their steam and slow up, right when they need to most to speed up. Wave gets to them, they death grab the rails ( thus stop paddling ) and get flap jacked over by the lip.

jaffa1949 wrote:Try your theories out!
Good wave catching is about positioning, paddling and timing, the pop up is dependent on all that when you have caught the wave, then it is the wave and your skill that dictates exactly what you do on a specific wave?

You still need to become a strong and efficient paddler!
If you go beyond the floaty easy catch wavestorm, you will need better paddling.
If you are not a strong paddler, you can find yourself a deer in the headlights obstacle in the line up!
PADDLE MORE! Get paddle fit, it will help the rest of your surfing?

A few excellent points, as Ive seen people pop up at just the perfect moment (seemingly before the wave has even started to really push them), and the late popups also.

In regards to my kookstorm, I got it because the market for boards is super tight and expensive here (Maui). Initially I learned on a 9'2 epoxy for maybe a year, then I came here and rented various boards over the course of four weeks (10 ft once or twice, 9'2 for probably 10 sessions then an 8' and tried a buddies 7'8 (or maybe it was a 7'6). The last week of my rentals I rented the 8 foot epoxy as much as possible because it was a perfect medium between maneuverability and enough float. I could have potentially gone smaller depending on the wave size, but I've got nothing but time

Of course the wavestorm doesn't have that same feel as the 8 ft epoxy, but I just bought a larger fin so it might get slightly mo' betta.

I do think the wavestorm is a slight step back in regards to ''standard / typical progression", but i'm a firm believer in that you are generally limiting your equipment, and not the other way around

Im just hoping for better waves tomorrow (today was 1-2ft and choppy).

You're right that if you get your positioning wired, then you can make your paddling way more efficient and less exhausting. However, you might find that you want to put all that paddle energy to use on your wave. I surf point breaks most of the time and I often need to get a lot of speed right out of my popup if I want to get in front of the pocket of the wave and stay out in front of it. That means I'll get just in front of the plunging line of the wave and start paddling horizontally to the approaching wave. The reason I do this is because I'll have a lot of speed generated from my paddling and then when I pop up into an angled takeoff I add the speed I generated from my horizontal paddle to the speed I pick up from gliding down the slope of the wave. That is often the perfect amount of speed I need to get in front of the pocket and out onto the clean face of a fast wave. If there's a crowded lineup, however, forget it. It's usually impossible to paddle horizontally to a wave without encountering five people in the way or surfers who don't understand what you're doing, etc. My point is that sometimes you want to build up speed with a longer paddle depending on the wave. The benefit of good wave reading skills is that you get better at ensuring that less of that paddle energy (speed) you've built up goes to waste.

Paddling helps me hunt the peak when I'm out of position and get into waves early. I ride a beach break and like sitting outside to get a better read on the sets. Some days I see long faces with no clear direction and popping up early helps me see which way to go.

Different waves/breaks require different tactics It's good to learn a few. Positioning in the lineup in or out, deep or shoulder. Timing when the wave hits you before that, after that. Paddle hard or start slow then pick up the pace. But whatever you do good paddle mechanics and good paddle endurance and strength help.

waikikikichan wrote:

Blackvans1234 wrote:I know its usually that beginners cannot/ do not paddle enough and miss the wave

I see the opposite where beginners are too enthusiast and paddle their guts out ( teeth clench, arms like windmill ), before the wave even gets close. Then they lose their steam and slow up, right when they need to most to speed up. Wave gets to them, they death grab the rails ( thus stop paddling ) and get flap jacked over by the lip.

I find myself in this position far too often. I'm always amazed at how experienced surfers can catch waves with just a few well timed paddles. My instructor could catch waves without paddling at all. He'd sit on his board, wait for the wave to catch up to him, he'd lie down on it just at the right time to propel him just a bit and then let gravity do the work. Effortless pop up and he'd be gone. Crazy.

Just surf 3 hours a day every day (and 6 hours every weekend) for your entire teenagerhood and early 20s, and you too can catch waves just like your instructors...

dtc wrote:Just surf 3 hours a day every day (and 6 hours every weekend) for your entire teenagerhood and early 20s, and you too can catch waves just like your instructors...

If only it were that easy . . .

dtc wrote:Just surf 3 hours a day every day (and 6 hours every weekend) for your entire teenagerhood and early 20s, and you too can catch waves just like your instructors...

Be careful what you wish for....

Except ive missed teenagerhood and early 20s

Im actually super stoked at my progression thus far. I can't wait to get some video of me going full kook for the internet to ridicule
I'll be sure to put a drop in as second clip, just like that other guy

beginners are too enthusiast and paddle their guts out ( teeth clench, arms like windmill ), before the wave even gets close. Then they lose their steam and slow up, right when they need to most to speed up.

I definitely did this. It's so important to save your energy and make that last bit of paddling your guts out happen when the wave is just about to pick you up.

Paddle fitness is a big one for me. Just spent 4 weeks out of the water due to an eye injury and I can’t believe how quickly my fitness has fallen away.

Oggy wrote: Just spent 4 weeks out of the water due to an eye injury and I can’t believe how quickly my fitness has fallen away.

So you can imagine those post where it states " Been out of surf scene for 15 years, now want to get back into it, what board is better ? A 5'6" Hypto Krypto or a 6'0" Firewire ??

waikikikichan wrote:

Oggy wrote: Just spent 4 weeks out of the water due to an eye injury and I can’t believe how quickly my fitness has fallen away.

So you can imagine those post where it states " Been out of surf scene for 15 years, now want to get back into it, what board is better ? A 5'6" Hypto Krypto or a 6'0" Firewire ??

And I’m on a 9’2”!

Great statement, I am always amazed how many returnees and beginners fall for the fallacy of short and paddles like a long board!
Skilllacking they come and fail!.

Oggy wrote:Paddle fitness is a big one for me. Just spent 4 weeks out of the water due to an eye injury and I can’t believe how quickly my fitness has fallen away.

Please tell me you're wearing an eyepatch in the lineup now!

waikikikichan wrote:

Blackvans1234 wrote:I know its usually that beginners cannot/ do not paddle enough and miss the wave

I see the opposite where beginners are too enthusiast and paddle their guts out ( teeth clench, arms like windmill ), before the wave even gets close. Then they lose their steam and slow up, right when they need to most to speed up. Wave gets to them, they death grab the rails ( thus stop paddling ) and get flap jacked over by the lip.

That's like every 3rd Kookslams video!
https://instagram.com/p/BiX0P3SntdH/

The guy obviously has no place being in that heavy shore pound anyway, but you can see that he grabs his rail exactly when he should be paddling his hardest to avoid being sucked up the face. This video got shared a lot for the LOLs (I laugh and feel bad for the guy at the same time), but it's actually a pretty good illustration of the water pulling him up the face of the wave and the novice surfer not being aware of what is actually happening.

Blackvans1234 wrote:Anyone else experience this? (I know its usually that beginners cannot/ do not paddle enough and miss the wave - I feel as though I paddle from further out IE- paddling extra)

Mahalo!

I literally went through the same exact progression a couple of months ago and posted about it here-
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=33952

I'll still miss waves of course, but usually I know afterwards it's because I've misjudged them, vs. that beginner stage of constantly missing waves and not knowing why you catch some but miss many...

The big key I have learned recently is to look down the line as you are paddling for the wave. Not only is it obviously good to see where you're actually going to go after you pop up, but on steeper take offs looking at the open face is the only way I can reliably judge whether I've paddled enough to match the speed of the wave. When the waves are not too big, it's fun to try taking off on waves that are literally about to break on you. It feels great to make a really angled entry and pull it off.