Surfing Waves

Thought some people might be interested in this podcast - from the Surf Mastery series. Its an interview with a surf coach, Clayton Neinaber, and he gets into some stuff around stance and positioning on the board; also analyses one of Kelly Slater's waves in detail in terms of positioning and weight/rail transfer eetc.

As a warning

- the interviewer is pretty good but not brilliant
- there is stuff about the guests history and so forth, which I found interesting enough

and especially

- it gets very technical. (I acknowledge the inconsistency in having a thread about not overthinking and then putting a link to a podcast that is all about thinking...).

Also, this is definitely for advanced beginners/intermediates. For people who want to improve their stance and so forth, not for people trying to learn the stance

so with those caveats....

http://surfmastery.com/podcast/claytonnienaber2

Thanks! Looking forward to listen to it:-) I'm currently listening to the Occ-cast on my way to work.

Thanks for sharing! The podcast comes in handy

If you notice on Kelly Slaters drop he starts with his legs bent but he is not just crouched but putting pressure on his front foot to get down the wave. When he gets to the bottom right before he gets there he extends his legs then he crouches again making it a two part turn, he bottom turns (part one) then turns back up the wave(part two). It's all so difficult for beginners to understand what he is doing. I don't like that actually and enjoy watching someone do a single turn on the bottom but he is timing the top turn to get it at the exact right time. Maybe that is why I am not Kelly Slater lolololol I am an old timer who likes smoother surfing. Perhaps if I could learn to time my top turns I could surf like Kelly Slater ? Hahahaha yeah right.... well he is just an amazing surfer and I still enjoy watching him even if he does a two part bottom turn. I also dislike ice skating when they are clearly setting up for a jump. Perhaps it's not possible to do the high performance without the setup but that would be my preference

old man, sounds like you are just an old school soul surfer longboarder at heart...

i think kelly might be doing a little manouvere to get the board into the exact right spot, or maybe its just to change the timing by a fraction of a second? Who knows, I certainly wouldnt have done anything like that - at least no intentionally - but not because I'm better than kelly of course, but because I have no idea why he would want to do it.

Both this podcast and the one with Martin Dunn was great! Have you seen the snap Kelly Slater does in the Fiji 2016 contest versus Jordy Smith? I have seen it over and over again. The size of that wave, and the spray...

oldmansurfer wrote: When he gets to the bottom right before he gets there he extends his legs then he crouches again making it a two part turn, he bottom turns (part one) then turns back up the wave(part two). It's all so difficult for beginners to understand what he is doing. I don't like that actually and enjoy watching someone do a single turn on the bottom but he is timing the top turn to get it at the exact right time.

Kelly might be known for his Two-Stage / Double Pump bottom turns now, but Tom Curren's version was mind blowing at the time. Watch this wave at Jeffrey's Bay, one of the hardest waves to master ( and make ). Tom's does multiple types of turns, the first couple being two part bottom turns. I love his carving turns at the top to his hand drags at the bottom.

fast forward to 1:48 and continue to see some slo-mo's.
( Oh, I by the way, this is the first wave Tom ever rode at Jeffrey's bay )

Some of those bottom turns and cutbacks are just beautiful- I’ve watched that video about 20 times over the past 6 months. Even old man might approve!

Hahaha yeah I love to watch experts surfing

dtc wrote:old man, sounds like you are just an old school soul surfer longboarder at heart...

i think kelly might be doing a little manouvere to get the board into the exact right spot, or maybe its just to change the timing by a fraction of a second? Who knows, I certainly wouldnt have done anything like that - at least no intentionally - but not because I'm better than kelly of course, but because I have no idea why he would want to do it.

I noticed he does that 2 step move when he does a carving 360 (or was that Andy Irons?). I notice that their are others who seem to be approximately on the level of Kelly Slater who don't do that. But it is possible that Slater does maneuvers which are qualitatively better than others but I am too much of a novice to notice the difference. His level of performance may be beyond my ability to understand. Regardless when I am watching others surf I am distracted when they do little set up turns or maybe even completely useless turns between more functional turns. Just a single pump on the end of a bottom turn isn't as bad as two pumps or more which some other surfers who are similar in skill level do on occasion. I might be a soul surfer but not a longboarder (yet)

I'm going to be like Tom and get myself a pink wetsuit for my first day of surfing JBay too.