Surfing Waves

There are days when the surf isn’t up. That’s most of the time for me, so I’d like to ask for help to make a solid list of small wave skills. Here’s a few to get us started. What do you think?

1. Boards with more volume perform better when there's a lack of surf. The key to gliding through flat spots and connecting waves is having enough foam under your feet.
2. When paddling for bigger waves, the wave does most of the work. In small waves, you do the work, so build-up paddling fitness.
3. It’s especially important to hunt the peak for your take off.
4. While going down the line, move your whole stance forward then step back when you need to turn.
5. Stay on your toes and try not to dig your heels. If you're too heavy on your feet, you'll bog down or dig a rail.
6. Finally, take a lower stance with a wider distance between your feet.

Longboards you can cheat up the nose to help catch small waves so that the board is nose heavy both when you paddle and when you pop up since you're already a bit forward....just make sure to set the tail in between.

Whatever you do make sure to pop up quick and smooth; bobbles on small waves are hard to recover from.....once it's lost it's lost.

1) perform better? I would say they are easier to catch waves and easier to stay on through weak parts but I wouldn't say perform better.
5) It depends on the speed you can get on a wave. Get enough speed and you can carve a sharp rail turn. Toes or heel just depends on the way you are turning. I stand on my toes when changing positions on the board but otherwise I am flat footed. Perhaps I am missing the point ?
6) I am not sure what the purpose a wide stance serves on small waves. Could you explain your thinking? Bigger waves is where I usually have a wider stance to be more stable because there is more force from the wave and speed.

and for - very - small or weak days, get a beater or big foamie or anything strong / not care if it breaks, and simply stand in the water, wait for the wave to catch you, then throw yourself on the board and slide down the face while popping up. Don't forget to position yourself for an angled take-off.

There are days when that's the only way to get any kind of a ride


That or SUP

oldmansurfer wrote:
6) I am not sure what the purpose a wide stance serves on small waves. Could you explain your thinking? Bigger waves is where I usually have a wider stance to be more stable because there is more force from the wave and speed.

I think he means staying low? Staying low helps keep your speed up if you've caught a really small wave.

pmcaero wrote:and for - very - small or weak days, get a beater or big foamie or anything strong / not care if it breaks, and simply stand in the water, wait for the wave to catch you, then throw yourself on the board and slide down the face while popping up. Don't forget to position yourself for an angled take-off.

There are days when that's the only way to get any kind of a ride


That or SUP

This is not the way to catch and ride small waves, this technique is still the flop in front of the white water level.
If it is big enough to ride across a small face you can paddle on to it. , about the angle is correct!
Forget about beater boards or fat bummed fish unless you are an already capable surfer.
Get a mat or a boogie board and just have fun, it’s always overhead on these two!
Have stable of different things to get you the water....... body surf even. Learn to be an all round surfer, become fitter, understand waves and their behaviours on a more intimate level.

pmcaero wrote:

oldmansurfer wrote:
6) I am not sure what the purpose a wide stance serves on small waves. Could you explain your thinking? Bigger waves is where I usually have a wider stance to be more stable because there is more force from the wave and speed.

I think he means staying low? Staying low helps keep your speed up if you've caught a really small wave.

I don't think crouching helps either other than it alters your weight distribution which can also be accomplished by moving or leaning. Crouching stabilizes you so that your weight stays in one place on the board easier but if you stand up it's easier to adjust your weight distribution however crouching does lower your profile making for less wind resistance but I am not sure how much that helps unless it's windy.

I think there is perhaps a difference between surfers who just want to relax and cruise and those who want to learn stuff. Relax and cruize answer is a different board, make it easier by using a different board that makes it easier. Otherwise you can learn with whatever board you have, and once you get all the needed skills then it will be just one more condition you can ride with that board.

Thanks for the replies!

Big H wrote: Whatever you do make sure to pop up quick and smooth; bobbles on small waves are hard to recover from.....once it's lost it's lost.

Good point. When I get tired my popup definitely wobbles. My front foot lands on the wrong side of the stringer and I do an accidental fade.

oldmansurfer wrote:5) It depends on the speed you can get on a wave. Get enough speed and you can carve a sharp rail turn. Toes or heel just depends on the way you are turning. I stand on my toes when changing positions on the board but otherwise I am flat footed.

You are right. I meant to say that being light footed helps you move in response to the wave. I see many longboard rides end too soon because the riders had a stagnant stance.

oldmansurfer wrote:6) I am not sure what the purpose a wide stance serves on small waves. Could you explain your thinking?

Sure. First of all, I’m longboarder and what works for me may not help folks on smaller boards. When I’m on the “sweet spot” and trimming a small wave, it reduces drag, and helps me glide through flat spots. There’s also your point about “lowering your profile and making for less wind resistance.”

pmcaero wrote:Don't forget to position yourself for an angled take-off.

That really helps when the waves are FAST!

jaffa1949 wrote:Get a mat or a boogie board and just have fun, it’s always overhead on these two!

Mat riding is a fun way to get your family, boy friend, or girl friend to get hooked on surfing. It worked for me when I was little!

Nice list, Bo Man! As I look back on the summer past, I totally agree with you on this. To me, when I paddle for a wave I'd lower my head plus raise my feet to try to make a drop. And Paddle HARD for extra 5 strokes? 10 strokes? Don't give up! Also collision avoidance skill is a must if it's a small wave, fair weather day.

jaffa1949 wrote:
This is not the way to catch and ride small waves, this technique is still the flop in front of the white water level.

define "small wave"

Takeoff at the peak when it breaks.

Between zero and one foot, gets hard towards the zero end!

BoMan wrote:2. When paddling for bigger waves, the wave does most of the work. In small waves, you do the work, so build-up paddling fitness.

In bigger waves you paddle "away" from the power, in smaller waves you paddle "to" the power. Angle in take off might not be the right call if there's no "juice". Catching straight might work out better. Or angling in to the peak, popping up with the lip and rebounding off it to let the wave fling you out.

BoMan wrote:6. take a lower stance with a wider distance between your feet.

There's a reason Hawaii locals say " Ho, check out his Waimea stance !" and laugh. It's when a kook surfer has a overly wide stance for the tiny wave he's trying to not fall off on. If you go low and wide, you lower your center of gravity and become more stable. But you also just cut out your "suspension" to absorb the wave and make quick smooth adjustments

waikikikichan wrote:

BoMan wrote:2. When paddling for bigger waves, the wave does most of the work. In small waves, you do the work, so build-up paddling fitness.

In bigger waves you paddle "away" from the power, in smaller waves you paddle "to" the power. Angle in take off might not be the right call if there's no "juice". Catching straight might work out better. Or angling in to the peak, popping up with the lip and rebounding off it to let the wave fling you out.

Trying to keep it simple for PM as he has no bottom turn , agree with the paddle to the power.

jaffa1949 wrote:Between zero and one foot, gets hard towards the zero end!

some of us extreme small hellmen would call that wave easy peasy.

pmcaero wrote:

jaffa1949 wrote:Between zero and one foot, gets hard towards the zero end!

some of us extreme small hellmen would call that wave easy peasy.

I have found I can do a no paddle takeoff on waves in that range

Adam Lefebvre applies many of the skills we've been talking about.
Do you notice anything we missed?