Surfing Waves

Hey

I have about 9+ months experience on a wavestorm, which I have taken in both 1 foot infants and 7 foot giant waves. I have learned how to angle my waves, even walk up the board haha. I just hate how big it is, and figured its time to begin something else to advance my learning.

I snagged a 7'6 surfboard off CL its like 21 inches thick i wouldnt call it really egg shapped or funboard shaped the front is a little pointy and the back is very flat. It is a thruster setup.

I can paddle fine and attempt to catch waves, but notice they pass under me. Idk if I am too far back on my board and should perhaps try leaning more forward? the waves recently have been like 6 feet so I dont wanna really pearl on a big wave like that lol its a little intimidating to see looking down. I also don't know if its fear, because I know with a shorter board i need to be a little closer to when the wave breaks so I begin riding the wave and its very steep so i bug out and usually jump out... maybe I should try standing when thats about to happen? I dont know if its me being too far back cause that what it sounds like but if i lean more forward I tip into the water when lying flat at rest and the ocean is calm. Other thing I think I may be doing wrong is that I am paddling too much at an angle and maybe should be a little more straight?

East coast swell is huge RN so maybe not the best to learn since there aren't many baby waves?

Any advice? Thank you for reading

P.S. I been thinking of getting a single fin longboard like 8'6 to rotate on and off with my 7'6 to develop more form and style and be more well rounded. What do you think?

You want another board to develop form and style more than you have while only paddling the 7'6"? Sorry, can't help but take a dig. Thing is if waves are that size catching them should be easy if you know how. Knowing how is the rub; we have all been there. Learning how is best done on a longer and larger board; I don't know your size but longboards around 9ft either hard or soft are a great place for learning how....if you are a smaller person than me and still a teenager (6'1" 92kg) you could learn the "how" on a smaller board than a 9' longboard....the older and heavier you are the harder it is to sort out on smaller boards.

I am assuming that 6-7ft waves you mean the face of the wAve and not how we measure here.....attached is a pic of a 3-4ft wave (same size and shape, just a different spot) that I surfed yesterday by our measures. If your 6-7ft is monstrous, a I think you still need time on a longboard.