Dropped to a smaller board, advice on how to adjust?

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Dropped to a smaller board, advice on how to adjust?

Postby Zealex » Tue Sep 26, 2017 4:10 pm

Hey

I have about 9+ months experience on a wavestorm, which I have taken in both 1 foot infants and 7 foot giant waves. I have learned how to angle my waves, even walk up the board haha. I just hate how big it is, and figured its time to begin something else to advance my learning.

I snagged a 7'6 surfboard off CL its like 21 inches thick i wouldnt call it really egg shapped or funboard shaped the front is a little pointy and the back is very flat. It is a thruster setup.

I can paddle fine and attempt to catch waves, but notice they pass under me. Idk if I am too far back on my board and should perhaps try leaning more forward? the waves recently have been like 6 feet so I dont wanna really pearl on a big wave like that lol its a little intimidating to see looking down. I also don't know if its fear, because I know with a shorter board i need to be a little closer to when the wave breaks so I begin riding the wave and its very steep so i bug out and usually jump out... maybe I should try standing when thats about to happen? I dont know if its me being too far back cause that what it sounds like but if i lean more forward I tip into the water when lying flat at rest and the ocean is calm. Other thing I think I may be doing wrong is that I am paddling too much at an angle and maybe should be a little more straight?

East coast swell is huge RN so maybe not the best to learn since there aren't many baby waves?

Any advice? Thank you for reading

P.S. I been thinking of getting a single fin longboard like 8'6 to rotate on and off with my 7'6 to develop more form and style and be more well rounded. What do you think?
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Re: Dropped to a smaller board, advice on how to adjust?

Postby Big H » Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:01 am

You want another board to develop form and style more than you have while only paddling the 7'6"? Sorry, can't help but take a dig. Thing is if waves are that size catching them should be easy if you know how. Knowing how is the rub; we have all been there. Learning how is best done on a longer and larger board; I don't know your size but longboards around 9ft either hard or soft are a great place for learning how....if you are a smaller person than me and still a teenager (6'1" 92kg) you could learn the "how" on a smaller board than a 9' longboard....the older and heavier you are the harder it is to sort out on smaller boards.

I am assuming that 6-7ft waves you mean the face of the wAve and not how we measure here.....attached is a pic of a 3-4ft wave (same size and shape, just a different spot) that I surfed yesterday by our measures. If your 6-7ft is monstrous, a I think you still need time on a longboard.
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