Surfing Waves

Hey all; so just started learning to surf; have gone out maybe five times with group lessons on a big foam board and finally have been able to stand up and ride relatively consistently and once was able to turn and ride down The line. The surf school I'm taking lessons from encouraged me to try one of the vinyl top boards which are still long 9' but seem to have less float or a bit thinner and were described as having less of a rocker? Anyway I had the lesson today with it and I was wiping out all over the place. Almost every time I tried to stand up I pitched nose first and ate it. I was slipping and sliding off the thing even when paddling and just had a really tough time trying to get back to where I was on the foam board. I guess this is just to be expected?! Can some people just never get the hang of something closer to a real surfboard?? My goal is to longboard and I have to say today was a bit demoralizing.

Was it waxed?

GoofyJess wrote: Can some people just never get the hang of something closer to a real surfboard?? .

Sure - just need another 50 hours and you will get there!

but, seriously - you are finding out that surfing is harder than is looks. It could be a different board, different waves, you are tired out, you are less confident. Or a mix of all of the above. For example, nose diving is due to your paddle speed not being high enough, which is related to the volume/buoyancy of the board (foam boards are much more buoyant) (do a search on these forums for 'nose diving' or 'perling' - its a very common beginner issue).

As Jaffa says, you shouldnt be slipping around unless either the board is wrong (no wax) or you are wrong (in which case ask your teacher). The other stuff is just learning and practice and you arent the first beginner to have exactly the same issues. Indeed, I suspect almost every beginner has the same issues.

My three (oft repeated) requirements for surfing: persistence, resilience and optimism. In other words: if you keep trying, overcome the bad days, then you will succeed.

(as an aside - a good way to learn if you are near where surf lessons are held is to sit on the beach and watch another lesson and see what people are doing. You quickly pick up who is going to nose dive, who is popping up too slowly, who is going to fall off etc. Then dont do what they are doing....)

Thank you both; yes waxed but perhaps not enough. I am taking that advice to heart: optimism, persistence, resilience! I tend to get down on myself when I feel I am failing, not helpful I know! I'm definitely willing to take my share of lumps learning to surf, it just felt so awesome going down the line on the foam board last week (I felt like I was surfing!!!) and then felt like I was starting over with the different board. Thanks again guys!

Being washed over the board happens in small waves can happen when you are too far inside or forward ( i have been guilty of that), so check your position.

Happens to others, too:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BYBgDTOAmbl/

Hahahaha wait...how did they get footage of me yesterday?!

One thing I noticed, Jess, was that when I started using my wife's longboard foamie - basically going back to a soft top -
after being pretty sucky on a 7' funboard, I started having fun again. It might not be the worst thing to stay on that soft top for awhile and just 1) enjoy yourself and 2) in general get better at the same things you're already accomplishing. Try the hardtop again after awhile, and see how you do. I finally found exactly the right fiberglass longboard, but until then I was having a blast on my wife's Greco.

I've found there's a lot more difference among hardtops even of the same length than I would have guessed. The one you were using might have been just a little too skinny or a little too high performance or any number of other things. My number one rule as I enter my third year is never to let much time go by not having fun. The point of getting better is to have more fun, not less, and if too much time goes by where that's not happening, it's time to dial the learning back a notch.

Thank you! I think I may do just that. I'm not really ready for anything more than a soft top board at the moment and I would rather go out, have fun, and get really comfortable catching waves myself rather than feeling tied to surf instructors pointing me in the right direction. My ego says 'real surfboard!' But my skill set (or lack thereof) says to ride a foamie with pride...is that possible?! Hahahah

GoofyJess wrote:....My ego says 'real surfboard!' But my skill set (or lack thereof) says to ride a foamie with pride...is that possible?! Hahahah

It certainly is possible to ride it with FUN, which is much more important. You surf for the experience, not to impress others.

Ramp up your fun factor challenge your skills bit by bit, laugh at your wipeouts and be excited by each success , have a thought for futures reference about what skill you will have when decide to shift to a new board.
There are real boards only real surfers