Surfing Waves

hey guys
Recently, I've been watching the pros surfing and I noticed that, many times, they hardly paddle for a wave and yet always seem to catch it. Is it because of their perfect positioning? because of their boards? I mean, sometimes they kind of just give two quick paddles, put their weight on the front of the board as soon as the wave reaches them and that's it, they're ripping.
On the other hand, I just saw the opposite in the longboard comp. Maybe it was because of the wave, but they paddled like crazy before getting into the wave.
I guess it has to do with the fact that the shortboard accelerates with gravity, whereas, when it comes to a longboard, you're supposed to accelerate it before the wave reaches you. Nevertheless, it strikes me how easily shortboarders get into waves.
Any thoughts?? Is there any technique that I'm missing?
Btw, this is my first post! Glad to have found this community online!!
Greetings from Portugal!!

Welcome to the forum, from Australia.
Pros are exceedingly match fit and yes they can short burst takeoffs, they are often very close to the critical point of the wave for immediate power and gravity transfer into riding speed.
The more skill a surfer becomes the closer they can get into the peak position. Good surfers and pro Longboarders can get into that position too but they need to have a slightly approach in the steeper part of the wave on take off as the board's curves don't quite match in like a shorter board.

There is also a pull back cork technique that enhances the first two or three paddle strokes: you push the board down and back into the water and as it forks back you control and add speed with your first paddle strokes. A good cork up can often get you on a wave without appearing to paddle= timing and skill.

100% it's their boards. 100%


Not every wave is the same....there are some waves that longboards can get into with just a few strokes....video of Wingnut, famous longboard instructor and advocate taking off with a longboard on a wave with no paddles and just corking.....fat onshore waves in a shortboard comp you'll see a lot more furious paddling....bottom line is that they are in great positions, are super fit, and are the top .0...% of the world's (read WORLD) surfers.

BTW, grommy's around here can get into waves just as easy.....good technique, knowledge of the wave so that you can be in the right place at the right time.

Pros are better at positioning for waves and they have better paddling and they could get into waves even better on bigger boards but they don't because they can get in using smaller boards and the smaller boards allow them to do the variety of maneuvers they wish to do. I haven't watched enough longboard competitions to learn the strategies for the competitions but if they are paddling like crazy to get into the waves I figure it has something to do with that.

The (longboard) No Paddle Takeoff

As opposed by this 'working man' (longboard) takeoff.

That guy had to paddle a lot because he wasn't in the best position to catch the wave. He could have been 30 yards inside of where he was and a another 10 to 30 yards deeper for an easier area to catch it from. I guess since it was a contest this is just the strategy they use. They stay outside and hope for a bigger wave but paddle like heck to catch the smaller ones that come through. I wonder why he got 10 points for that ride? I have seen some fairly awesome waves ridden at that break? Maybe for the nose ridding?

I don't know about his motivation, but he REALLY wanted that wave