Surfing Waves

Hi
I have recently returned to surfing after a 10 year period out, apart from the lack of flexibility and surf fitness that I am playing catch up with, recently on a session at my local beach which is a slow take off perfect longboard wave I hit a wall really hard when attempting to go for unbroken waves. When I mean hit the wall I litterally bottled every green wave that came my way. Anyone got any tips on working through this as really need to get on top of this to get my surfing mojo back.
cheers in advance.

What was the issue? Pearling? Popup cum forward roll? Wave passes under you?

You've surfed before....paddling is square one. Paddle as much as you can in a session and slowly your paddle muscles, stamina and technique will improve. Then you'll be able to move around faster to get into position for an oncoming wave, paddle better to catch the wave, have improved ability to get back outside/to the correct position after a ride.

Don't sit around on your board....paddle as much as you can during your time in the water and at least you'll be before off in one, albeit a rather large and important "department".

Only other tip is to fight the inclination to ease your way back into surfing and surf out on the shoulder.....go right to the peak, wait your turn then take a wave from there.....if you can't catch the wave on or just off to one side of the peak, at least you can cross off your checklist it being the fault of the wave......

cjmeadows wrote:When I mean hit the wall I litterally bottled every green wave that came my way.

Sorry, I am not familiar with the term "bottled". 1) When you surfed 10 years ago, did you catch only white water soup or "green" waves ?
2) What size board did you ride 10 years ago. 3) What size is the current board you're riding

I was mainly surfing a thruster setup longboard and would happily paddle out at most beaches and surf waves from right out back of saunton which was my favourite wave tbh. When I mean bottle it I mean I start to paddle for the wave and start to feel the lift I just kind of loose my nerve and bail off the back of the wave. I mainly stopped surfing because I misjudged a rip and ended up being washed accross the rocks to the right of the beach and took a bit of a beating. So now I returned on my noserider to give myself plenty of time and float as I deff take longer to get to my feet at the moment, which might be another reason that I loose my confidence when taking off the unbroken waves.

Sounds like you lost your sense of positioning after your time out of water.
Try sitting right on the peak and paddling as hard as you can, also sit further in than you currently are so you get lifted a bit more by the wave

Before you go out always look for currents, dangerous obstacles such as rocks, reef, other surfers , and watch the waves. Figure out lineups so that you don't accidentally get swept down the beach and more so that you can catch the waves that you want to catch. Become a student of the ocean.That is what will keep you safe.

Then you need to work at paddle strength most likely. I was out for 11 years but before I restarted I spent 6 months working on my arm strength (weights and exercises). I had gotten so out of shape without surfing and had so little time to spend surfing that I knew surfing alone wasn't going to be enough to get me back into shape. But if you have the time availability then paddle your board around even if there are no waves.

Then go for smaller green waves

Big H wrote: Popup cum forward roll?

Is THAT part of catching a wave?

I would just forget about standing up fot a couple of waves. If it's a fairly mellow longboard wave just focus on paddling hard and getting into the wave. Then ride a couple on your belly.

Also, might sound a little odd but on occassions when im feeling a little nervous about the waves I will purposefully bail a wave and land right in the pit. Once it's over with you realise it's not even that bad. Then what's left to be scared of?!

I would second barber and suggest you take off on the first wave that comes your way regardless if you think you'll make it or not and take a few wipeouts(never as bad as you imagine). Seems your problem is mental and unfortunately, that's something only you can overcome. Main thing is to stay safe. If you don't feel comfortable, don't paddle out. Start small and increase your wave size as your comfort level rises.

Surfing tutorials helped me after a long layoff. Take a look at these or find your own.

Reading Waves


Catching Unbroken Waves



Turning and Going Down the Line

For safety sake you need to find waves that don't make you hesitate. Hesitation is very likely going to doom your attempt to ride the wave so you need to find waves that don't make you hesitate then work up from there. Getting fit and improving your knowledge of the lineup will help your confidence

pmcaero wrote:

Big H wrote: Popup cum forward roll?

Is THAT part of catching a wave?

Popup that begins properly but ends with the would be surfer doing a forward roll as they stand up.....lots of surf schools here; a newbie focused on their toes will do this over and over.....seen it.

barber87 wrote:I would just forget about standing up fot a couple of waves. If it's a fairly mellow longboard wave just focus on paddling hard and getting into the wave. Then ride a couple on your belly.

Also, might sound a little odd but on occassions when im feeling a little nervous about the waves I will purposefully bail a wave and land right in the pit. Once it's over with you realise it's not even that bad. Then what's left to be scared of?!

Don't do either in a crowded competitive lineup......you'll get dropped in on the rest of the day.

Thanks for all the help guys, I wasnt able to go on saturday but hoping for some waves next weekend as swell building

Big H wrote:

pmcaero wrote:

Big H wrote: Popup cum forward roll?

Is THAT part of catching a wave?

Popup that begins properly but ends with the would be surfer doing a forward roll as they stand up.....lots of surf schools here; a newbie focused on their toes will do this over and over.....seen it.

Yeah, guilty of that myself. I think it comes from bending from your hips instead of bending your knees, essentially moving your center of gravity outside and not down.

Hi everyone thanks for the help, a quick update, I have now been working on fitness & flexability and slowly its starting to come back to me, although Im stuck at the stage where for some reason I pop onto my knees sort of half way rather than too my feet. When at home and before I stopped my pop up was ok and straight up, now not so much. Any ideas as I again feel this is more of a mental thing that me not being fit enough.

Cheers in advance

Keep practicing at home till it becomes automatic.

cjmeadows wrote:Hi everyone thanks for the help, a quick update, I have now been working on fitness & flexability and slowly its starting to come back to me, although Im stuck at the stage where for some reason I pop onto my knees sort of half way rather than too my feet. When at home and before I stopped my pop up was ok and straight up, now not so much. Any ideas as I again feel this is more of a mental thing that me not being fit enough.

Cheers in advance

Took me months to get rid of my knee habit it wasn't a big deal when I was on a longer board but when I went to a shortboard I had the same commitment when going for waves except I got sent to the bottom and smoked everytime
Best advice to get rid of this habit is to learn the chicken wing popup, it's very easy and completely makes you forget about your knees, it's considered a two step popup but the more you use it the faster it gets eventually it becomes one fluid motion.
I love this technique because if steeper waves where in some cases takeoffs can get close to vertical, you never disconnect from your board so you make the drop, my timing wasn't good enough by hopping like a cat on my board with both feet at the same time that I would wipeout in bigger/steeper waves.
Here's a video on how it's done

It's a confidence thing with me today I sort of got it to a habit of it being scary when it isnt't, it's like how people are afraid of the dark you just look at them at think they are wises because you've overcomed that fear (like catching green waves)