I have a hard time judging what's really going on from
gopro videos. Looks like you are doing ok. Is there some particular aspect of your surfing that you would like to work on? Surfing requires timing and skill. So if you can physically perform a maneuver is one thing but knowing exactly when to do it is another thing. Partly it looks like your timing of the maneuvers is sometimes slightly off but it is difficult to tell from the gopro video. Overall my usual recommendation is to keep practicing. That is how you learn. One of the things I do is to work on a particular maneuver so at first it was my
bottom turn then top turns then
cutbacks so maybe I might do all on a wave but if I am working on something I look for sections of the wave that will allow that particular maneuver and try to do it as much as possible in my surf sessions. There are some surf instructors here who can probably evaluate your gopro video better hopefully they will respond. Probably a more useful approach to learning to surf from others would be to pick out some aspect of your surfing that you want to improve then post a question on how do I do this skill better? Then there will more likely be lots of responses here.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.