Surfing Waves

I have kept this in for a couple of years now and only my wife knows.
This is slightly embarrassing and I feel someone or a few of you will not judge me and actually help me here.

So to make a long story short, Ill give a little background to how my problem started.

So I started surfing when I was 11, when I was 13, my friend was killed by a great white with me in the water.

Earlier that same year I came 3rd in the under 16 division in a small Billabong surf contest held here in Knysna, South Africa.
After the attack, I sold my surfboard and vowed never to go back.

At 15 years old, I bought another board, sold it a year later, bought another board sold it and this went on and off
until recently.

I am now 30 and I have been back in surfing now for 2 years solid.
But I have an issue though... I cannot get over my friends shark attack when Im in the water and because of this, I never surf the back line if I cannot stand there, this limits me to mainly surfing low tide or smaller waves.

I am not bad, in fact I surf quite well actually but have this fear and not only that, because of this I also have a fear of not being able to paddle back to shore and it feels like I get dragged out to sea and I BATTLE to paddle in enough to catch a wave back in and for this reason I also stay in the shallows where I can stand at max shoulder depth. This is hindering my fitness too and also plays a roll in not being able to paddle much and get tiered really quickly.

Can anyone give me some advise as I wish I can get over this fear and surf like I use to as a kid.

That's heavy man, I can understand you being traumatised by a terrible thing like that. Maybe you can talk to a professional about this? Therapeutic sessions can sometimes be surprisingly effective.
All I can say is work on your paddling fitness, go in the shallows and paddle. Do intervals just like in surfing. The stronger you'll get the more self confidence you will build. Maybe you just need a little push to get over your hangup?

I have the same fear as you. Which is why I only surf in busy line up. I also sit in the middle of the line up rather than on the side. I think the first thing you need to know is that you don't have to be embarrassed. If I ever see someone getting attacked by GW, I would probably never step foot in the sea. Hey, I got xxxxx scared when I saw a seal staring at me 20 feet away. I panic and was in tears with a heart attack. I was squirming when I saw a sea turtle looking at me. I get scared by any thing in the water. Like kelps, small fish and even jelly fish.

I'm more of an embarrassment to surfers than you. I think I must have picked up the fear from watching Jaws when I was a kid. I was traumatized.

That is heavy. I don't blame you for being afraid. I think it's normal but how to get over it is the question? My suggestion is to get some professional counseling from a psychologist or psychiatrist. They would most likely be the best set at trying to get over it if that is possible. I don't think anyone that posts here regularly has had the same experience as you. If you don't want to go that route then my only advice is to take baby steps, just go out a little farther than you are completely comfortable with. Eventually you will be comfortable there and then go a little further.

It might also help to surf with a friend to focus your attention on the FUN. Take care!

if you don't mind the extra rubber, you could take surf trips to colder climates where shark attacks are much rarer.

Your fear response is not something you you should be embarrassed about.
It is an ongoing response to a life threatening and one taken experience as an eleven year old.
You would be hyper alert in the water and limiting yourself to surfing where you you believe it won't happen again.
This would also translate into fear in other areas, like your paddle in .

I admire your courage in getting back into the water. Do you realise how powerful just doing that is!

Seeking help from a profession might help, especially if they surf.

The small incremental approach might work step by step and definitely achievable goals. Knowing what you want from your surfing and how it blends safely into your daily life would be great.
Surfing is pretty amazing when you see and feel that you would like to engage more fully.
Wow amazing!

My wife is one of the top behavioral consultants in Tokyo, and previous to that was a Dolphin trainer. I asked her about your situation. Just random notes to share
1) of course there is the Fun vs. Risk factor, but you may think it's selfish to have fun when you have the responsibilities to protect your wife and family, just in case you get killed or permanently disabled.
2) even if the percentages are slim, still you might have a bad day.
3) there's nothing wrong with staying on the inside. Make the most of what is presented to you.
4) you are entering "their" territory. She recommends to surf someplace else if possible.
5) where there are Dolphins, there usually are no sharks.

My recommendation, don't surf during Dawn or Dusk, don't surf in murky water or near river mouths.

Thought that I read. " Boats are safe in the harbor, but that's not where boats are meant to be. "

You are more likely to die in a traffic accident on your way to the beach than getting killed by a shark. You are more likely to die choking on food or falling out of bed. Over your whole life you are thousands of times more likely to die from the flu than a shark attack. Horses, bees, dogs, cows and champagne corks each kill more more people than sharks every year. But I don't think you should walk to the beach and have your food all blenderized so you won't choke or that you should sleep on the floor for fear of falling out of bed and seriously injuring yourself. I don't think you should avoid being around horses, cows, dogs, bees or champagne but you should use common sense and be cautious (and get your flu shot if you are older).
So I guess you realized all this but still have trouble. You are more likely to die surfing from other causes than sharks (drowning). There are reasons to be wary of the ocean and sharks are a small part of the concern. It's reasonable to be worried. I guess as Waikikichan says you can continue surfing the shallows and this may make you feel safer but most shark attacks (all species) are in shallow water (waist deep) so maybe that is just a crutch that you hang on to. I am pretty sure there are sharks around when I surf. It's their territory but I try to stay aware of the ocean and it's inhabitants and if I notice something out of the ordinary then I am even more wary. I try to always be smooth and sure in my actions in the ocean because sharks are opportunists looking for an easy prey. If you are erratic and frantic it may only serve to attract them to you. I say all of this and truthfully I may just become another statistic but at my age 63 I can tell you it was worth it.

oldmansurfer wrote:You are more likely to die in a traffic accident on your way to the beach than getting killed by a shark. You are more likely to die choking on food or falling out of bed. Over your whole life you are thousands of times more likely to die from the flu than a shark attack. Horses, bees, dogs, cows and champagne corks each kill more more people than sharks every year.

You hear statistics like this a lot. To be honest, I think they are made for the general public who probably go in the sea 5x max per year at busy tourist beaches. If you are regularly surfing sharky breaks then the risks are much higher I think. I'm not saying don't go in the water as the risks are probably still small.

With reference to the OP, well done for getting back in at all. I don't know if I would.

I don't think I've ever had a surfing session where the idea of a shark attack didn't cross my mind. Nevertheless, I still embrace the danger. I see it as vital to making the experience of wilderness meaningful. I would probably enjoy surfing in a giant wave pool, but that experience could never replace surfing in the wild ocean. Indeed, I would probably only surf a wave pool in order to improve my skills for surfing in the wild. There are people who hike in the back country alone, without cell phones, with no reliable access to rescue because they find that risk rewarding. I understand that impulse to let go of the tether to safety. There would be no adventure in life without that risk and, I believe, most of us want to have adventure in our lives. A life without adventure is a wholly administered life and that kind of life is hell. I'm not saying that everyone has the same taste for adventure (I could never get into skydiving, for example), but I think everybody needs some risk and adventure in their lives. It's just a matter of finding what kind of adventure is meaningful to you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8ikhzYX1nY

Yes but surfing is safe overall maybe somewhere around as dangerous as long distance running .....If I want risk I am going to take up horseback riding or soccer now there is some danger lol

Thanks guys for all the kind words and awesome advice.
I think the baby steps is something I must do, and when I say this I mean by each day instead of standing, I must sit or lie on my board while waiting for waves but do so in the shallows.
I wanted to see a Psychologist but didnt think it would help much as one of you mentioned it would be better if he/she was a surfer too and understand what I might be going threw.
I attached some pics to show you some of my surfing, but you guys have no idea how I miss the bigger waves.
I also attached a pic to show you what I mean by Ill only go out as far as I can stand.

Part of my practice as a chiropractor was also as a behavioural counsellor, and a slight and easy program I would suggest requires a couple of initial questions.
Do you surf with friends who are reliable?
Would they work with you if I offer a couple of suggestions ( I'd like to offer this on the open forum but can go with the PMs if you prefer, my suggestions may help other people with fears) .

Next question, is your current beach known to be a fairly shark safe beach?
I note here the water in your shots looks pretty brown, that does concern in regard to the question above!

Is the depth of the beach gradually deeper or is there a drop off?

More questions if you wish to work with me, no offence if your answer is no either!
My aim comfort safety and surfing to the level you wish!
Cheers Jaffa

It's so nice to see everyone being so supportive and considerate to CTNSurfer makes me proud to be a surfer (:

jaffa1949 wrote:Part of my practice as a chiropractor was also as a behavioural counsellor, and a slight and easy program I would suggest requires a couple of initial questions.
Do you surf with friends who are reliable?
Would they work with you if I offer a couple of suggestions ( I'd like to offer this on the open forum but can go with the PMs if you prefer, my suggestions may help other people with fears) .

Next question, is your current beach known to be a fairly shark safe beach?
I note here the water in your shots looks pretty brown, that does concern in regard to the question above!

Is the depth of the beach gradually deeper or is there a drop off?

More questions if you wish to work with me, no offence if your answer is no either!
My aim comfort safety and surfing to the level you wish!
Cheers Jaffa

Hi

I am the only one left out of all of my friends that still surfs, so its only myself and my wife sometimes joins.
Her nephew lives quite far from us, but he joins me on the odd occasion.
You are welcome to give advice on the open forum, thanks a mill!
The issue is not only the shark issue, with this fear came a fear of not being able to paddle back in line with the waves to get back to shore, it feels like I get pulled back behind the waves and just cannot paddle back to the waves.
It has bothered me for years and finally want to get some advice, so please yes some suggestions will be awesome!

EDIT:
I forgot to add, the dirty water is at a different spot than I normally surf.
My main surfing beach is called BigBay in Bloubergstrand Cape Town.
It gets gradually deeper and the water is reasonably clear.
There are no recorded shark attacks at this beach and is considered VERY safe.

OK thanks for sharing, I think a good start would be to get your confidence in your paddling and the beliefs around that.
First question do you have strength and stamina in your paddling? Separately, can you generate short bursts of paddle speed?
You obviously are catching waves, but is it a paddle on catch, or a leg push off the sand start ( since you are in standing deep water)?
What size is your board and your weight, mainly because it will have some effect on your paddleability.
I'll have a google at your home beach in the next couple of days so I have a better idea too.
talk again ASAP

I am 1.72m tall and 65kg.
I surf a 6.1/2 ft board 19" wide squash tail.
I also have a 6ft board 19" wide rounded tail.
I paddle easily to catch the waves, short or long strokes, power paddles or short efficient paddles.
I am quite strong and well built, but as soon as I cant touch the floor, my shark fear kicks in and then I panic and it feels like I get washed out to sea and fear I wont get back to shore, with this panicking I become extremely fatigued in my arms and struggle to paddle.
Now this is the fear I am embarrassed about since the shark attack 17 years ago.

The best course of action is getting a therapist or someone to help especially someone who knows how to help PTSD patients, it'll be baby steps but you'll start getting over the fear, I know what it feels like to be terrified of something even though it may probably not be there I had a similar issue with heights though I didn't suffer from PTSD.
Anyways man keep the stoke and keep pushing yourself slowly but no too quickly, stay in your comfort zone

One thing that will most likely help is to improve your paddle fitness and to learn about currents and how to recognize them and how to deal with them