Surfing Waves

Hello!

New to posting, long time reader

Question, here is background

1. new to surfing in last year ( weekend warrior--> week trips here in there)
2. Started with 9 foot log, just moved down to 7'6" ( just got it )

I quickly understood, that 95% of surfing is paddling, so while already a gym rat, any day im not in the ocean, im at the gym or in the pool activating my pool muscles. Something that seemed to make sense to me was (And i got) a shortboard to practice paddling during the week at my local indoor pool ( Its a 6'4" used board). Here is my question(s)

1. i believe my paddling strength is very good ( 5'11 170lbs, 10% BF) good training enduranc
2. I can get balanced on the 6'4", but when paddling, i notice a little "left to right" imbalance. I make sure my chest center is aligned with the stringer. I dont feel like im going to fall off necessariliy, but almost like a "canoe feeling" if you were paddlign with 1 oar. this sort of "left to right feel"
a. Im keeping the nose about 1 inch above water
b. leaning back properly, core strong. Head/neck stable (aware if head moves/so then does feet
c. Ive tried various foot positions ( In air, crossed over, toes together)

I do notice if i kick while paddling, the speed creates more balance, however would like to fix the problem

1. Is it lack of muscle memory, because i started with new board?will it just come around?
2. my reach a problem? I enter fingers gently, "over the barrel"


Any thoughts?

do you do much unilateral lifting (ie dumb bells rather than barbells). Are you strongly one handed (right handed etc). Entirely possible that you have one arm stronger than another

A second common issue is 'mouse shoulder' - the shoulder on the hand you use for your mouse is sometimes higher than your other shoulder. Or your shoulder flexibility in the overhead position is slightly different. Just creates a different paddle strength or effectiveness. not much but enough

Or it could just be a matter of having one arm more coordinated and stronger and more technically efficient than the other (because that is the arm you use for everything eg being right handed)

To be honest, I really dont think its an issue in 'real life'. In the pool you notice that you arent going dead straight because you have pool ropes or black lines; but in the surf you will be going right and left and drifting and duck diving and being affected by waves and rips and currents - a slight deviation from a perfect straight line is completely irrelevant.

Good Stuff. thanks for the detail.

I dont think its a left vs. right strength....

I guess (always tough to describe) it feels like more of a "Torso" shift.... at times, (not this dramatic, but from "|" to "\" )

Maybe wax the xxxxx outta the board more? but even if i stand in the room and "Air paddle" ( try it ), you can even feel a "left to right" canoe movement...

im really good at keeping my head aligned, so i know its not from head/neck wobble.

i guess after 3-4 more pool sessions ill have a better idea... is it normal when people get shorter/lighter boards to have a "balance " learning curve? #impatient as they come

Completely normal....the smaller you go, the more you need to be able to control your balance with body positioning and core strength....that and the rhythm / cadence of your paddle....the smaller you go the more all needs to be in sync.

awesome..i think i can work on that...

will going faster/kicking improve things? i watch alot of pros on video's/you tube, and if the waves are clean, it appears, they dont seem to "paddle like their life depends on it", it seems actually slow and steady?

My opinion is you just aren't used to such a short board and need more practice

pros dont paddle hard because they are in the right position. If you are in the right position then you dont need to paddle hard either!

There is definitely a 'torque' effect as you paddle - you are pulling down on one side of the board so the board moves toward that side; it should even out as you use the other arm. But as Big H says, your core and hips should work to counteract the torque and keep the nose straight

kicking while paddling is one of those things no one can agree on - some people reckon definitely helps, others say there is no need and it just creates instability, others say it puts your feet out of position for the pop up. If you feel it works and is comfortable, then kick; if you dont like it then dont kick.

I'm just speculating here, but maybe it's your board. Are the fins in the proper alignment? Do you pull to that side on other boards?

The moment you forget about rolling your fingers over the barrel, keeping you head steady, flutter kicking and so on......... and just PADDLE, you'll be better off.
Simple experiment, go out the front door and walk down the sidewalk to the corner. Figure out how many steps it takes, when you heel strikes and when the toes pushes off. Remember where you fingers are and at what angle your elbows are at ............ got that ?
Now forget about everything I said and just go walk without focusing on anything.
I really think you trying to keep you head steady, has a action/reaction with your body torquing. Just relax and let it do what it wants to.

Huh, that is what happens when you learn to march in the army. A heap of people forget that the left arm goes forward when the left foot goes back and vice versa. They are concentrating so hard on marching properly that they end up with arm and hand going forward at the same time (called 'square gaiting'). Forgetting how to walk...

Also, at least on my 7' egg there is a spot where the board is less tippy when I paddle. If I scoot forward even an inch or two all of a sudden the board becomes quite a bit wobblier.